Exotic Pets

There are a large number of species that can be termed exotic pets, including mammals, birds, reptiles, fish and invertebrates. The availability of many unusual species has led to more people considering keeping these animals in their homes, and tarantulas, iguanas, salamanders and snakes are all becoming more and more popular as pets. But before you buy that cute-looking frog or that furry spider, it is important that you consider the following points:

(Please note, many of the points below apply to all pets, not just exotic animals)

• Many species are illegal in the UK, often due to the danger they may pose to other people or because of the animal's conservation status in the wild. Find out about any laws pertaining to your chosen species, and whether or not you will need a permit.

• Find out everything there is to know about the species you are thinking of. Buy a good care guide, talk to your vet, surf the net and contact other people who have the same pet to find out the pros and cons.

• How much space will your pet require or will it need the run of your house? If it needs regular exercise, make sure you can put aside enough time each day.

• How long will your pet live? Some species of reptile may outlive you, so are you prepared to spend the whole of your life looking after it?

• Can you handle your pet? Tarantulas may bite if they feel threatened and release hairs that can irritate your skin and eyes. Some amphibians can also be difficult to handle due to their coating of protective slime.

• It may be difficult to find a vet who has experience with exotic pets. Find out if there is one local to you. Children and exotic pets rarely mix.

• Some species are potentially dangerous to people and other animals. If you have other pets, be sure that they will get on with an exotic species.

• Exotic pets have specific dietary requirements, and may need to be fed with foods that you feel uncomfortable handling, such as frozen mice or live locusts.

• Who will look after your pet if you go on holiday? It may not be as easy to find a willing pet-sitter for a tarantula as it would be for a cute little kitten.

• Some species carry diseases. Reptiles, for example, can harbour salmonella.

• Find out the maximum size that the species you are considering can grow to. Some pythons can grow to over 6ft.

• The cost of accommodation, food and vet bills is likely to exceed the initial price of the pet, so think carefully about whether you are prepared for the expense.

• Will your pet need company? Some species become stressed if kept alone, whereas others will prefer to be solitary.

Bird Cages vs. the Parrot Cage

If you are like many people, you probably have not given a lot of thought to whether bird cages or a parrot cage are that much different. Choosing the right cage for your feathered friends definitely is a choice you will want to give some thought. The many different sizes and materials from which they are made is just one aspect of choosing the right one for your bird or birds. When choosing a parrot cage or bird cages, here are the considerations you will want to be sure you take into account.

The Sizes

First off you are going to need to think about the size, and what sort of bird you are going to purchase. If you want parakeets, then you can get by with a small cage, but that really depends on how many parakeets you are actually planning to keep. If you just have a single parakeet then you won't need a huge cage, but it still needs to be comfortable. Remember, this is the bird's home, and it needs to be quite comfortable in it's home.

Other types of small birds, such as finches, canaries, budgies, and lovebirds won't require a big cage, but they need to not feel as if they are cramped. The decision hinges on the number of birds that you wish to put in a cage, and if you're buying a baby parrot, make sure that the cage is big enough for when it grows and is much larger.

Your bird will be happier if the cage is the proper size for it's species and the amount of birds that you are keeping in it. It needs to be the proper size no matter what, and birds love interacting with people. Make sure that the cage is in a room in which people visit all the time, that way they get all the interaction they need. This is also a huge consideration when purchasing a cage. If you are in a small home you don't want you cage to be too large.

The Materials

Material is something that you need to look into when you are purchasing a cage, because they need to be steel or wrought iron. The reason for this is that if you have a weak material the bird will be able to chew right through it. If you have a parrot, then it is important to know that they are a lot stronger and a lot more intelligent, they may be able to just open the cage door depending on the complexity of the lock.

The best material is either a steel cage or a wrought iron cage. Avoiding wooden cages no matter how cute they may be is a good idea because they are more easily breached by the bird. Making sure the bird cages are made of materials that have not been painted is another aspect of purchasing a safe bird cage. Some paints can be poisonous to your bird.

You also need to make sure that the bird cages you purchase don't have bars that are too wide. Make sure that the bars are no more than half an inch apart, because if there is more space your bird will probably be able to waltz right out. Make sure the material isn't easily broken so that your bird won't just break the bars and wander out of the cage.

The Shape

There are many different types of bird cage, and they come in all different sizes. They could be square, they could be round, and they might even have a dome. You will find that a dome is good for the majority of birds because they enjoy being able to go up top and see what is going on in the household. Keep this in mind when you go shopping for a bird cage.

Small cages are generally going to be round or square and this does not matter a whole lot if the bird you are going to choose is a small bird. The main thing you want to ensure when purchasing bird cages is they are the proper fit for the bird. These are available in hanging types or with their own stand.

There are some cages that have play areas up top for the birds when they're out of the cage, and some cages actually have two stories. These are great for parakeets, cockatiels, and medium sized birds. Think about this if you have a lot of birds and require several cages.

Accessories

All bird cages should have easy access to the inside for cleaning and refilling food and water containers. They should also have a tray that removes easily for cleaning. There are many cages that the roof can be detached and this is very handy for cleaning. They should have perches for the birds to sit on and relax. These are easier on the bird's feet if they are made of wood.

Climbable and toys are almost a requirement for a bird's happiness. You will find that the majority of birds are very active and need to be able to entertain themselves. Swings are also a great addition for a bird cage, and some birds like to perch on the swings and squawk rather loudly.

Most importantly, make sure that your bird is happy in his or her cage. The cage is their home and you need to keep it clean at all times. I you do this then the bird will be very happy. Pick out a bird cage as if you were picking out a home for yourself.

Remove pet stains from carpet

As well behaved as most of our pets are, accidents happen. Even with the best of training, every dog or cat makes a mess on the rug at least once in its lifetime. Thankfully, these messes can be cleaned up in no time with minimal or even no staining. If you’re thinking about tossing out your carpet because Fifi had herself a little accident, read on. Hopefully, some of the tips mentioned here will help you remove any unwanted pet stains.

If you happen to catch the accident just after it happens, act immediately. The first line of defense for stain fighting is to take steps to remedy the situation as soon as possible. Clean up any solid material with a paper towel and blot at the stain with clean paper towel or rag until no more of the stain can be lifted. After that, there are several remedies that might work. Vinegar is a wonderful all-purpose cleaner. It can be used full strength for heavy stains or for a lighter surface stain, it can be diluted in some warm water – one part vinegar to two parts of water. Pour the vinegar directly on the stain and blot until no more of the stain can be lifted. Always blot stains, don’t ever rub. Not only can rubbing cause the stain to spread, it can also weaken the fibers of your carpet, which can lead to tearing and bald spots. The room, and carpet in particular, may smell like vinegar for a day or two, but this will pass. Besides, compared to what the room might have smelled like soon after the accident, vinegar may be the preferable scent.

Hydrogen peroxide diluted with some warm water is another option. Like vinegar, this solution can be poured directly on the stain and blotted until the stain is lifted. Because this is bleach, however, you may want to test on a hidden area of your carpet to make sure there will be no discoloration.

Something else to try is a solution of a quarter cup of mild dishwashing liquid (one with no bleaches or alkalis) to one cup of warm water. Blot with a sponge or cloth until the stain is lifted. Rinse by blotting with cool water and dry with a towel.

Baking soda is also a good remover of pet stains. Pour the baking soda straight from the box onto the stain and coat the stain entirely. Let this sit for a couple of hours or two, it should draw the stain right out. When time is up, you should vacuum the baking soda, and the stain, out of the carpet.

For pet vomit stains, remove any solid matter and then+ cover the remaining stain with salt. Cover the salt with a towel and let sit for a couple of hours. This should absorb the stain right out of your carpet. You should vacuum after a couple of hours. If none of these solutions work, your local pet emporium should have some products that will do the trick or you can call in a professional carpet cleaner. Pet accidents shouldn’t be the death of your carpet and, in most cases, can be cleaned with items found in your kitchen pantry. With luck, the above-mentioned tips will help prolong the life of your carpet.

Dog Games

Here are some great games that help your dog to use his brain and develop his senses, rather than just exercise his body. By playing these challenging games, your dog will be learning to listen to you, to concentrate and to improve his memory.

These games can be played in the house, in the garden, on walks, in fact anywhere!

Suggestions for games:

• Hide a toy or treat in the house or outside. Ask your dog to find it. You may need to help him a little. While you hide the toy, either move the dog so that he is out of sight or pretend to place the toy in several different places.

• Throw the toy into grass so that it is not visible. Send him to find it. Make the game more difficult by:

• Not sending your dog for a minute or so, so that he is less likely to remember the exact place.

• Calling your dog away from the toy and then sending him to find it.

• Calling your dog away, then doing something else, like asking him to sit or even fetch another toy, before sending him out to find the first toy.

• Inside the house, have a selection of boxes. They can be cardboard or perhaps empty (clean) margarine or ice-cream tubs. Hide a toy or treat under one of them. Either have your dog out of the room or, if he is watching, pretend to hide it under each. Send your dog to find it. He may knock the boxes over to get it, or he may prefer to indicate it by pawing at it. You can then lift it for him to gain his reward. This game can be made more difficult as detailed above. On a walk, drop a toy or treat onto the grass as you walk. Stop after one or two paces and call your dog to you. Send

him to find his reward. As he progresses with this game, you can take more steps away from it before calling your dog and sending him to find it. Whilst it is essential that games are fun, it is important to have some degree of control over your dog.

• Throw a toy away from your dog, but hold onto him. Then send him to get it. Make this game harder by throwing the toy and calling your dog away from it first, then sending him for it.

• Develop the game by throwing two toys in different directions and asking your dog to get one first, come hack to you and then get the second. Let him choose which he collects first.

• Teach your dog to collect a named toy.

• Throw out two toys and send him for one specific toy. He should bring this to you before you send him back for :he second toy.

• Make this game harder by throwing two toys, sending him for one, taking it from him, throwing it again and letting him get this, before sending him for the second toy.

Homemade Cat Food Recipes

Try these homemade cat food recipes - they're easy for kids to make as a treat for your special cat.

Minnie's Morsels for Mature Cats

1 can sardines, packed in olive oil
1 cup whole grain bread crumbs
1 egg , beaten
1/2 teaspoon brewer's yeast (optional)

Pour contents of sardines in a medium bowl. Using a fork, mash into tiny pieces. Add remaining ingredients and mix well. Drop 1/4 teaspoon of mixture onto a greased cookie sheet. Bake in a 325F oven for 7 minutes. Store in air tight container.

Tuna Treat Cat Food

1 6-ounce can of tuna
1 cup steamed chopped broccoli
1 teaspoon chicken broth
1 tablespoon boiled white rice

Mix all ingredients and serve cat food to your pet.

Salmon Snack for Cats

1 6-ounce can of salmon
1 cup cooked potato, cubed
1 teaspoon chicken broth
2 tablespoons cooked oatmeal

Combine ingredients and serve to your furry friend.

Chicken and Carrot Cat Food

1 cup of cooked chicken, diced
1 cup carrots, shredded
1 tablespoon boiled white rice

Combine all ingredients and serve to your feline.

Beefy Bonanza Cat Food Recipe

1/2 cup cooked beef, shredded
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
2 teaspoons beef broth
2 tablespoons Bulgar wheat

Soak Bulgar wheat in warm water for 20 minutes. Mix together shredded beef and chopped celery. Add beef broth and Bulgar wheat.

Serve to your cat.

Dog Cleanup Strategies

Having a pet can be messy. In addition to the housetraining accidents, there is hair everywhere! Here are some tips for minimizing messes and cleaning up.

Hair:

* Brushing and combing your dog daily will help keep hair from showing up on clothing and furniture, especially during shedding season.
* Put an easy-to-wash dog blanket on chairs, couches or pet beds.
* Clean filters in dryers, air conditioners and furnaces regularly.
* On carpets and rugs, use a vacuum cleaner with both a beater bar and a brush.
* For hardwood floors, spray an anti-dust spray on the mop, let it settle and mop.
* Use damp paper towels or a damp cloth to wipe down counters or corners.
* Use a damp cloth, paper towel or rubber glove on upholstery, bedding and drapes. Rub in one direction only.
* Clothing: Tape rollers are best. Or, use wide packing or masking tape rolled sticky side out around your hand. Keep a tape roller in the car.
* Velour brushes also work well on clothing and upholstery. Rub in one direction to remove hair, rub in the other direction to remove hair from the brush.
* Washable items: Shake them out and use one of the above methods to remove most of the hair. "Dry clean" some items, such as cushions, in a dryer set on "air" along with a damp towel and fabric softener sheet.

Urine, Solid Waste and Vomit:

* Get to the spot ASAP. Clean or blot up what you can, using paper towels. Use a knife or piece of cardboard for solid waste.
* Do not use cleaning products with ammonia. They will attract your dog to the spot again! Use an all-purpose cleaner or dish soap for most accidents and rinse. When clean, wipe the spot with a rag or sponge dampened with white vinegar.
* For accidents on carpets, put a towel or multiple paper towels on the stain and stand on it, changing towels until you've soaked up as much wetness as possible. Then use a carpet cleaner or a little dish detergent in water. Blot, don't scrub, so you won't spread the stain. Rinse with a wet sponge and then soak with club soda for 10 minutes. Blot it up and place other paper or white cloth towels over the stain with something heavy, like books, on top and leave overnight.
* The next day, spray on an enzymatic bacteria odor neutralizer like Nature's Miracle. A laundry enzymatic pre-soak product also works well. The enzymatic product must soak as deeply as the urine. The treated area must remain wet and warm for 24 hours to really be effective. Cover the area with plastic to keep it from drying out.
* Launder urine from washable items by putting them through one washing machine cycle with a cup of vinegar and no detergent. Then wash them again as usual.
* Hardwood floors and porous concrete floors are very difficult to rid of urine odor. Use an odor remover to temporarily solve the problem. In severe cases, a thin coating of concrete may have to be poured on concrete floors. Hardwood floors may have to be sanded and/or bleached and the protective finish re-applied. Badly stained wood floors may have to have the wood replaced.
* Open containers of vinegar in the corners of the room help keep the room smelling fresh.
* Dogs have very sensitive stomachs and vomit at the slightest provocation. Feed your pet dog food without dyes (such as iron oxide) to avoid red or orange stains on your carpet.
* If soiling is a recurring problem, discuss the problem with your veterinarian. Your dog may have a medical condition.

Pet Insurance Tips

With accounts of veterinary surgeons on the rise, if you love your pet how can you consider not having pet insurance to cover the costs of medical tests, x-rays, prescriptions and other medical expenses? As the travel insurance policies for individuals, you can buy policies in the short term company insurance for their pets. If you buy a pet at an early age, then it would be prudent to ensure the earliest possible because the probability that an insurance policy providing for the animal as the average age range is remote.

Insurance Plans specialized in providing health care for animals began in the eighties at the end of the line with the increase of the owner of an animal. That assurance has become more popular, chances are that your veterinary surgeon to know and accept the various insurance programs for pets currently available. As for the insurance man are the different types of insurance for pets, including liability insurance, which protects you if someone harm animals, destroy property, cause accidents, and so on.

In fact, it is possible to arrange an insurance policy for all expenses of the company where all the doctors, accidents, injuries or damage costs will be paid by the insurance company. With so many different types of policy and now the companies in this sector of health insurance, it becomes clear why talk to your vet about his recommendations make sense. Most insurance policies for animal care now serves accidents, cuts and dental work.

As for the insurance man, pet insurance pays the provider of health care and in this case the veterinarian, according to a schedule established by the insurance company. Pet Insurance has become more expensive in recent years along its popularity and the owners of pets the most loving do almost anything for the welfare of your pet. Do not buy insurance for pets may seem like an easy way to reduce costs, but one visit to the Veterans of something serious enough to actually purchase just a month seems like a good idea.

Too often added to the policy which is the amount that the owner of the animal must be paid before any claim can be processed and, if the amount due is less than this figure then there is nothing for the insurance company to pay what helps to reduce small claims and keep premiums down. The first pet insurance plans to ensure that treatment costs are covered, up to a limit set annually for the duration of the animal requires treatment for veterans. Although financial investigations on the subject have shown that pet insurance can be a minefield for owners and its complexity is deterring some people to take cover.

Something to consider if you are looking for in your insurance premiums for pets are affected by age, health and breed of your pet and animal type and can be more complicated that typical human health insurance. To offset the likely costs of health later in life of an animal from an insurance plan for pets as soon as possible is usually the best way to avoid financial problems as they age.

Dog's Excessive Barking

If you are a dog owner, chances are you might be aware how frustrating it is to control your dog’s behavior. Some dogs get too aggressive to the point that they become disturbing and irritating to your family and your neighborhood, while others bark excessively for some weird reasons. Many dog owners find themselves clueless and unsure as to what must be done to solve this behavior.

Here are a few tips to help you solve your bestfriend’s nuisance barking:

The primary thing you need to check is if you’re giving your k9 all the things and necessities he needs. Barking is a natural behavior among dogs and they usually bark to communicate something with you. If their needs are not being met, the barking might be a cry or signal that he longs for your care and assistance. Always ensure that you give them the right amount of food and water everyday. You also have to clean after your dog.

Dogs could be barking because of irritation. Flea or tick infestations and skin allergies can cause your dog to make excessive noise. Taking your dog to a veterinarian can help you determine whether or not he is healthy and free from any canine diseases.

If your beloved pet barks a great deal, you might observe that they are either bored or energetic. Don’t let your dog be confined inside your house, instead, take him outside where he can play and interact with other dogs as often as you can. You can also train him using tools such as dog training crates and dog exercise pens. A dog that is properly trained to socialize with people and other animals will not bark excessively. Training your dog is a great way to improve his physical and mental stimulation. Dogs naturally enjoy the outdoor and like to experience new things. The barking problem may be solved when the dog is taken on regular walks.

By and large, dogs bark for they beg for a little attention. So don’t be rude. Never yell, hit or scold your dog when they are barking. These kinds of reaction can aggravate your k9’s anxiety. If your dog barks because he is stressed or lonely then your yelling is just going to confuse and hurt him.

Along with these behavior modification methods, you may also try using some gadgets that are designed to address the barking. You can buy bark control collar and other training collar equipment that will quickly train your canine to stop his nuisance barking.

Soft Sweaters for Dogs

Winter season brings in a sultry mood around, as it gets so wet and damp around, especially if it is snowing where you live You can get some great bright looking soft sweaters for dogs with vibrant colors to change the mood of your furry pet

Winter season brings in a sultry mood around, as it gets so wet and damp around, especially if it is snowing where you live. You can get some great bright looking soft sweaters for dogs with vibrant colors to change the mood of your furry pet. A good warm sweater can be available at a low price. If you would like to go for stylish designer ones, then they can be found in a slightly higher price range. Soft sweaters for dogs will surely brighten up a dull day. With these winter sweaters for your pooch, you don?t have to worry about how to take your dog out for a walk in the winter. Sweaters for your little doggy will surely protect your pet from the cold and wind. The sweaters are made from materials that are chosen keeping in mind your dog?s likings.

It is important to choose the right kind of sweater for your dog to keep him warm and cozy. Before one buys soft sweaters for dogs, he should keep in mind various points to help a dog parent buy the right sweater. When choosing particular soft sweaters for dogs or a coat for winter wear for your furry friend, make sure it has a soft lining to it. Just an outer show is not good enough.

Soft sweaters for dogs are very long lasting and can sustain wear and tear of the material. The weavers prepare sweaters of a single shade, checks or even patterns in bright colors that can make your little pets look very attractive. The designers ensure that your pet feels proud in wearing them. Once your pet wears the sweater he may not like to take it out even when he has to go for a bath.

You get a wide range of woolens and furry jackets and soft sweaters for dogs that not only keep your doggie warm and comfortable in the chilling winters but also make them feel a million dollars. Like humans, even dogs can get frostbitten, but warm jackets and sweaters keep your pet warm and thus safe. This is especially helpful for those dogs that are blessed with short hair and thin fur. So, irrespective of the breed of pet dog you own, you can enjoy shopping through the Internet, you can find online shops that offer you a wide selection of winter sweaters for both small and large dogs. Avail of the opportunity of selecting the best possible soft sweaters for dogs and make your pet feel warm and comfortable during the harsh winters.

Wool sweaters in particular can be very comfortable for your dog as apart from being warm, they are very soft and there is very little chance of any adverse reaction. Small dogs generally need wool sweaters as they usually have very little protective fur. Even big dogs that have short hair will need wool sweaters. Winter is a time when dogs are susceptible to colds and this can be dangerous; therefore, soft sweaters for dogs are not just a luxury, but a necessity!

The History of Dogs

Dogs belong to the Canid family (Canidae).

Dogs first appeared about 40 million years ago, before any other carnivore families like bears or cats.

Carnivores have a pair of teeth similar to blades that are called carnassials. These teeth are like scissors and can slice through skin and muscle.

Thirty five living species are included in the Canid family tree. There are three main groups.

1. South American foxes
2. Wolves, including jackals, wolves, coyotes, and dogs
3. Foxes including the red fox and his relatives.
The dog that we commonly know is the closest kin to the gray wolf.

There is genetic evidence and fossils that confirm that all dogs are the direct descendants of wolves. Skeletons of the earliest dogs and their wolf cousins are very hard to find differences.

There are around 400 domestic breeds of dogs and they all belong to the same species, Canis familiaris.

A group that can successfully reproduce with one another is known as a species. A sub-group of the species is a breed. This has been made by human interaction. All individuals in a breed can reproduce with each other, but the features of the breed can be altered or lost when one breed is crossed with another.

Fossil records show there are three main groups of dogs and they have been around for many years. Some have become extinct.

Group one came from North America around 40 million years ago. These dogs looked like a mix of a weasel and a fox from fossil evidence. They became extinct around 15 million years ago. They were called Hesperocyon, which means “western dog”.

Group two were larger and looked similar to hyena’s with big jaw muscles and strong teeth. They began around 34 million years ago and became extinct around 2.5 million years ago. They were called borophagines.

Group three called the canines includes the dogs we know today. This group is first seen in fossils from North America around 7 million years ago.

Facts About Diabetes in Dogs

If you think dogs can't get the same illnesses and diseases as humans, then you are barking up the wrong tree because your dog can get any illness that a human would. Diabetes is not different in dogs than it is in humans because your dog can still suffer a lot.

This can be a life threatening disease in dogs and if you don't catch the symptoms right away you could be putting your pet at risk. Here are a few facts that you need to know about diabetes in dogs.

In dogs, diabetes is a disease that attacks the endocrine glands and makes them not function properly. As in the human world, there are two types of diabetes in dogs and they are diabetes insipidus and diabetes mellitus. Diabetes insipidus is the lack of vasopressin in your dog. Vasopressin is a hormone that controls the way your dog's kidneys take in water. Diabetes mellitus is when the dog's body can not produce insulin.

Now that you have a slight understanding about on the difference about the two types of diabetes in dogs, let's take the other type now. Diabetes mellitus is one of the most deadly diseases that your dog can get if you don't know the symptoms to catch it right away but it can be handled. There are 2 types of diabetes mellitus. Just like human disease of diabetes, you have type 1 and type 2. They are very similar to the affects that humans are dealing with every day.

Type 1 diabetes in dogs is also known as juvenile dog diabetes. It gets its name because this form of diabetes usually shows up when the dog is a younger dog, puppy to age 2 roughly.

Type 2 diabetes is about the same as humans because this disease usually comes into play when the dog gets older and their body can no longer produce the insulin that the dog needs to make its internal organs function. If your dog has this type of diabetes you have to give your dog insulin shots and make sure you check your pets blood sugar level so that your dogs insulin is low you can give them a shot.

No matter if your dog has type 1 or type 2 diabetes, your dog is worth the money and the time you spend on your dog because of the happiness that a pet brings to you and your family. A dog is a pet that is irreplaceable because of the loyalty and the companionship that a dog brings to your family. Take your time and try to understand about diabetes in dogs because it can make a world of difference in your dog's life.

Stop Dog Aggression

It is natural to feel scared when your treasured pet turns aggressive. It may seem funny when your puppy shows aggression towards another puppy, but this can be a serious problem if it continues until you become desperate to stop dog aggression in your dearly loved pet.

It is important to think about the cause why this is occurring. Has your dog been well socialized? He seldom leaves the home or the backyard and even though he may have another dog as a mate and is fine with them, when he is out and sees another dog he becomes aggressive. So how do you stop dog aggression like this?

Step One
It is an important first step to have your puppy well socialised with people and other dogs. Find a Vet Clinic in your area that holds puppy classes and book in to a class so that your puppy becomes socialized. Take a 3 month course with your local dog obedience group once your puppy is 3 months old. Your dog will not only learn some basic skills, but will also be better socialized with other people and dogs, while paying attention to your directions.

If you want to stop dog aggression, you can’t just start, then stop this activity. I was obedience training my Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, and was also using the clicker training method with the young dog Cooper. However, I stopped going to dog obedience
and did all my clicker training at home, as he got better at it. Twelve months later if he even saw another dog at the Vet he would bark madly (not really aggressively, but nevertheless it was a real nuisance), so I took him back to dog obedience for a short period to socialise him again. Ever few months I would take him back to dog obedience.

Why You Get Dog Aggression and How to Stop It
To stop dog aggression you will probably need to neuter a male dog. Male hormones play havoc in a dog and will make him more aggressive. If your dog is guarding you, your property or his territory he is likely to be aggressive.

You should de-sex your dog (unless you want to show him or breed from him) once he begins to be aggressive towards other dogs. Likewise, if your dog is being protective, you want him to be this way, but you also want him to obey you and you need to be able to stop dog aggression if necessary.

Having a well trained dog is the solution. Act like the alpha being, the controller, the leader; once your dog recognises this, he will follow and obey you. Even a soft growl is a form of aggression and must be stopped immediately. Don’t depend on the verbal command of ‘No’ to have any effect in an aggressive situation. However a growl with your teeth bared could get a good response and stop dog aggression, if it is done in the early days of him exhibiting aggressive tendencies. However, you should not have eye contact with a dog if it is acting very aggressively and therefore should not try growling yourself.

Stop Dog Aggression Tips
It could also be a good plan to use a muzzle or one of the special leads and mouth restrainers that are obtainable. These special training products are not cruel and will stop the dog from biting. Try some of these tools and when you are positive your dog is reliable when on a lead, then you can remove them; it is a good way to stop dog aggression.

Try distracting your dog with food to stop dog aggression; this can work well, especially if he has been trained using food rewards. Give a directive to get his attention; once he is looking at you let him see (and he will also smell) the food. The moment you get his attention, give him his food reward. Give another directive straight away and throw the food on the ground so he has to hunt for it. He will begin to concentrate on you more than the other dog once he has the food reward. Repeat this process a few times until he has his mind entirely on you and the reward. To understand better there is a book covering how to stop dog aggression to help you.

Aggression tendencies will disappear in most dogs, if you show strong leadership qualities as soon as you notice any sign of aggression. But you could have great difficulties with the breeds of dogs that are ‘hard wired’ to be aggressive e.g. Rottweilers, Dobermans and Pit Bull Terriers. Don’t put off getting a professional trainer to help you if you cannot manage yourself.

The Right Pet for You

Are you in a pet search but you haven’t decided on what animal you should get? Read on for some tips to get you closer to being a pet owner.

If you are thinking about getting a pet or pet adoption, this means that you are ready to accept another soul in your life. Some say that animals are better than humans, so having a pet around might be an amazing experience for you. But what is the right pet for you? Are you a cat person or you would be better off with a dog or even with something bigger like a boar or a pig? This all depends on your personality and the amount of free time you have.

So, if you want a dog around, you have to know that this pet will need about 1 to 4 hours of your daily time. A dog needs to be taken out for strolls and it will also need you to play with it. Each breed of dog is different, some have more energy and will require more time spent outside- the case of the Terriers, while other dogs- such as the Basset - will only need a brief walk out. It is a good idea to have a house and a yard; otherwise your pet will most likely be unhappy.

If you have less time, but you would still love a pet, a cat might be the thing for you. Cats do not require much attention, they have their own personality and they do their program as they please, so you won’t have to bother too much about a cat. It will come to you to ask for attention at times and that is all you need to do. A cat will do well in an apartment.

If you like birds, you can get a few birds and they will also require very little attention and space, but you have to know that birds may become very noisy- so ask yourself if you want that noise every day. Forget about birds if you are a stressed person.

In case you are a person who likes the silence, the fish will be excellent pets for you. They will surely not do any noise and will have a soothing effect on you. Watching the fish swim can be a very relaxing activity.

Some people want an unusual pet, such as an iguana or even a pig. It’s not sufficient to want them, you also have to think about the fact that these pets have special needs and you will have to take care of them for the rest of their lives. However, the latest thing is a virtual pet, so you might want to consider getting one and spare you a few complicated chores that are involved in having a real pet. So, have you decided now?

Cleaning Dog Teeth

Due to great veterinary medicine, our canines are living longer. This is due to preventative medicine which includes dog teeth cleaning. We never worried about cleaning out pet’s teeth until recent years, but just like in humans, we have found that oral health is very important to our health and to our pet's health.

Man’s best friend rarely gets cavities, but our furry friends do get gum disease and plaque build-up. There are products that can help reduce the build-up of tartar and thus help alleviate gum disease. Some of these products are put into their daily drinking water and your pet never suspects a thing. Another way to alleviate gum disease is to brush your dog’s teeth at least four times a week, if not daily. Nothing helps fight tartar and plaque better than a good dog teeth cleaning.

Sometimes it is necessary for the veterinarian to perform a professional cleaning. If you have never experienced dog teeth cleaning; here are a few things you might want to know. First of all, it is not inexpensive, but many offices offer payment plans and the price varies depending on where you live. The price is generally somewhere in the range of $200-$500.

If teeth have to be extracted, the cost could be considerably more. During a dog teeth cleaning, your dog will have to be anesthetized, then x-rays of the mouth will be taken to determine the health of the teeth and bones in the mouth. Your canine baby will then receive antibacterial solution. The doctor or technician will then use an ultrasonic scaler to remove calculus above and below the gum.

All teeth are then inspected for gum disease. The teeth are then polished, more antibacterial solution is applied; and basically this is a typical dog teeth cleaning. Of course everything is recorded within a dental chart, just like for humans, and follow-up appointments are scheduled.

Although a dog teeth cleaning is generally very safe, you have to weigh the benefits against the anesthesia risks. This is very important especially if you have an elderly dog or a dog in questionable health.

There are very effective alternatives which are safe with respect to dog teeth cleaning. Gels and sprays can be used quite effectively for removing and keeping tartar from building up on dog teeth. These gels and sprays for cleaning dog teeth are completely safe and have no side effects whatsoever for dogs. They are quite inexpensive also compared to the high cost of dental scaling performed at the vets office. Additionally, these products word very well for older dogs who should never undergo unnecessary anesthesia procedures.

Although the dog teeth cleaning products do not act immediately for removing tartar, their correct and continued use for a month or two will remove even the most stubborn of tartar buildups. Best of all, with continued and regular maintenance treatments 3 or 4 times per week, the teeth will remain tartar free from most breeds of dogs.

Always check with your vet on what he or she suggests for keeping your dogs teeth clean.

Heart Disease in Cats

Cats, as most people know, are extremely stoic animals. It is very rare that a cat will complain about pain or discomfort. This may seem like a desirable trait to some, but in fact, it makes it much more difficult to determine whether or not the cat needs medical attention. Luckily, our feline companions do not seem to be prone to the myriad of diseases that dogs seem to be. However, they can acquire their fair share of medical problems. For example, one of the more common heart diseases in cats is known as feline hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (FHCM), a serious and progressive disease of the heart muscle.

The heart is a phenomenal organ and is quite possibly the most important organ in the body. It acts as a central pump, moving oxygen and nutrient-carrying blood from the lungs to the rest of the body.

The blood moves around the body in a circuit that is controlled by the pumping of the heart, making some vital stops along the way. The heart has four basic chambers, the right and left atrium, and the right and left ventricle. When the muscles in the right and left atrium are contracting, they push the blood into their respective ventricles. The ventricles have thick muscular walls, as they are responsible for pumping blood to distant areas of the body. When the muscles of the right ventricle contract, the blood in the chamber is pushed to the lungs, where the oxygen is taken up by the red blood cells. This blood then returns to the left atrium and subsequently the left ventricle, where another contraction pushes the blood to the rest of the body. Other organs, such as the brain, kidney, stomach, and liver, receive this oxygen-containing blood. This circuit is continuous as long as the heart keeps pumping.

Heart disease is divided into two categories: congenital (diseases that are present at birth) and acquired (diseases that develop later in life). When something goes wrong with the heart, there are a number of things that can be the source of the problem. Valves in the heart, which regulate blood flow between the chambers, can be leaky or unable to open wide enough. There can be holes present in the muscle walls between the chambers or between the major vessels. The muscle walls can become damaged or changed for several reasons. Any of these can cause changes to the amount of blood that is circulating around the body, and if severe enough, the disease will present itself in some characteristic symptoms, such as trouble breathing and fainting.

In cats, feline hypertrophic cardiomyopathy is a disease of the heart muscle. There is no definitive cause for this disease, but it is known to often be associated with high blood pressure or hyperthyroidism. In the case of FHCM, the muscle of the left ventricle becomes thickened and stiff so that it cannot be easily fill with blood. The condition can be compared to a balloon – a fresh new balloon fills easily with air as it stretches, while an old and stiff balloon does not fill as well, because it does not stretch. If the left ventricle of the heart has trouble filling with blood, there is less volume of blood in the chamber before the next contraction, and as a result, less blood is pumped around the body with each heart beat. When there is not enough oxygen-rich blood reaching the brain, episodes of fainting can occur. In addition, if blood is not being pumped out to the body and starts backing up in the heart, the increased pressure causes fluid to leak into the lungs making it difficult for the cat to breath.

FHCM is a condition that affects mainly middle aged cats, although younger cats can also be affected. It is much more common in males than females, and seems to be more prevalent in Persians and Maine Coons.

Symptoms
Symptoms of this disease include loss of appetite, lethargy or weakness, sudden development of difficulty breathing or fainting. It should be noted, however, that symptoms are not always present and the first sign of disease could be sudden death. Another consequence of the disease may be the formation of a blood clot that lodges in a blood vessel near the hind limbs, resulting in paralysis and loss of blood supply to the hind limbs. It is therefore important to bring your cat to your veterinarian every year for a thorough physical examination. Your veterinarian will check for heart murmurs and changes in heart rhythms that can suggest heart disease.

Diagnosis
FHCM is diagnosed with some very specific tests that may require referral to a cardiologist. Your veterinarian will first perform a thorough physical exam and will check the heart for murmurs and abnormal rhythms, as well as examine the entire body for other abnormalities. The blood will be tested for signs of other diseases that can be affecting the heart. X-rays of the chest will be taken to see if any of the heart chambers appear enlarged, and to determine whether or not the lungs are clear. An electrocardiogram (ECG) is a recording of the electrical activity of the heart and will tell your veterinarian about the abnormalities in the heart rhythm, and changes in the size of the chambers. Finally, an ultrasound of the heart can be performed by a cardiologist to visualize abnormalities and the ability of the heart to pump effectively.

Treatment
Before a treatment protocol is developed for your cat, thorough bloodwork must be performed to rule out other diseases that may be present, such as kidney failure. The functional ability of other organs is important in determining the medications that will be prescribed and the management of the heart disease.

The goal of treating FHCM, as it is a progressive disease (meaning that it gets worse over time), is to treat the symptoms and try to prevent the disease from progressing. The treatment protocol depends on the severity of the disease and the symptoms that the cat is experiencing. For example, if your cat is having difficulty breathing there are medications that help reduce the fluid load in the lungs to make breathing easier. Medications may also be prescribed to help the heart function better, by slowing down the heart rate and improve the muscle relaxation in the ventricle. A medication, such as aspirin, may also be recommended to prevent clots from forming if your cat is at risk. administration of this, however, must only be done following the instructions of your veterinarian.

Prognosis
Cats that are not showing symptoms of disease may live for years without problems. The longevity and quality of life for symptomatic cats, however, depends on the stage of the disease. Unfortunately, those with heart failure may live approximately one year or less. It is important to remember that, ultimately, it is the quality and not the quantity of life that counts.

Cat Pregnancy

The entire development of the embryo is a fascinating study with scientific names for each stage, but for brevity and better understanding, we’ll concentrate here on the basics.After fertilization, the zygote (formed by the uniting of the sperm and the ovum) begins to form a somewhat ball-shaped mass of cells, known as the cell mass. Once the cell mass passes 16 cells, it is called the morula. The morula enters the uterus and plants itself in the uterine wall by secreting an enzyme which dissolves a pocket of tissue in the lining of the uterus to form a “cradle” for the morula. In the cat, the egg reaches the uterus in five days and implantation occurs approximately two weeks after fertilization. Also, since the cat ismultiparous (bearing more than one offspring during pregnancy), this process will be repeated simultaneously by multiple zygote-

morulas, possibly from matings with different male cats, or toms. Not all embryos will survive implantation – this is truly a case of “survival of the fittest.”

The embryo continues to develop, with the more highly evolved cells of the cranium and thoracic regions developing early. The embryo floats within a fluid filled cradle of two sacs, the amnion, and the allantois. Amniotic fluid contains water, protein, sugar, salts, fat, and traces of urea. The allantoic fluid, is filled mainly with excretory products from the fetus.

The placenta, the source of attachment between the maternal and fetal bloodstreams, develops later. The placenta is the “highway” over which oxygen, nutrients, and fetal waste interchange

Finally, when all the organic structures have been formed, the embryo becomes the fetus, and the first trimester is completed. From now until birth, the major activities will be development (the second trimester) and growth (the third trimester).

Care of the Cat During Pregnancy

If you are fostering a cat or have welcomed a stray pregnant queen into your home, you’ll need to have a veterinary “well-check.” It is important in the case of a stray, to have her tested for FeLV and FIV and to discuss the pros and cons of vaccination.

Assuming you have a healthy queen, the best care you can give her is a diet high in nutrients, along with plenty of fresh, clean water. During the final 20 or so days, she should be switched to a premium quality kitten food, and continued on it until after the kittens have been weaned. Feed small, frequent meals. Her abdomen is full of kittens, and she won’t be able to eat much at any one time. She should also be kept indoors at all times.

Impending Birth of Kittens

As your queen nears her time for giving birth, she will exhibit a few signs that will give you clues to the impending arrival of kittens. The first stage of labor lasts from 12 to 24 hours, and may include the following “symptoms:”

• Nesting
  She may start snooping around in closets and secluded areas for an appropriate place to bear her kittens. The time is ripe for you to prepare an area for her in a private place, with a box or basket lined with soft towels. She may decide instead to give birth on the cold, hard floor of your bathroom, but at least you have tried to accommodate her needs.
• Increased affection
  She may suddenly become very loving, and want to be near you at all times. Don’t be surprised though, if a previously affectionate cat becomes withdrawn and seeks solitude. Either personality change may be completely normal.
• Decreased Activity.
  Queenie may decide she’d rather sleep most of the time. She may also lose interest in food.
• Milk Discharge from Nipples
  Your cat’s nipples will have become enlarged and pink about the third week of pregnancy; 24 hours or so before birth, she may show a milky discharge. This discharge may come even earlier in cats that have given birth several times.
• Drop in Temperature. The normal temperature in cats is between 100.4°F and 102.5° F. A dramatic drop in her rectal temperature is a sure indicator that birth is imminent

Organic Pet Care

According to statistics almost 10 millions tons of waste products that are the direct byproducts of cats and dogs take a tremendous toll on our environment annually. Experts note that exposes excrement can contaminate both soil and groundwater adding disease-carrying bacteria and parasites to them, while refuse that is bagged tends to lay idle in landfills. In addition, pets are frequently exposed to harmful levels of toxins due to the food and toy/product choices we owners make on their behalf. In fact, a recent 2008 study suggests that the hazardous toxic exposure for dogs and cat’s was significantly greater and more varied than it was for their owners…and that they say should prompt loving pet parents to take immediate precautions and action.

* Consider crafting their toys: Store-bought products are often manufactured in foreign lands that use lead and cadmium, that can be harmful to animals, especially those that chew on them and ingest the components. Time takes its toll at toxic chemicals and metals affect the nervous system, red blood cells and bowels, which may even be fatal. Can’t make your own toys at home. Consider “homemade” products…..those manufactured in the U.S.A. You can create your own using organic cotton and/or wool stuffing using an old-school sewing machine. You can even transform your old jeans, towels, socks or other stealthy fabrics into healthy playthings for Fido.

· Go Organic: Organic foods aren’t just for humans anymore. In fact, some pet food tainted with melamine that resulted in the illness and death of many family pets, just two or so years ago, got the attention of lots of loving pet owners. And, while the threat is no longer immenintly there, the need to choose wisely “IS”. Organic pet food reduces your pet’s exposure to growth hormones, antibiotics, and synthetic fertilizers. In addition, some agricultural experts suggest that the byproducts of producing traditional pet food proteins can compromise the water and soil supply. Experts suggest opting for USDA approved organic pet foods, which meet the same standards as human organics. They also recommend talking with your Vet about how to make some homemade kibble and bits for your pet, always keeping in mind that cats and dogs need special and specific combinations of nutrients that are often determined by a variety of factors including animal type, breed, and age. Still, nutritionally balanced homemade meals fare far better than bagged or canned varieties, primarily because the digestive systems of cats and dogs tend to process fresh, raw foods better than they do cooked foods. Plus, a healthy diet of balances raw foods will build their bodies’ resistance to worms. Again, just make sure to discuss options and recipes with your Vet first.

· Properly discard of doo-doo: Consider taking excrement to mills that offer pet-specific systems that rely on enzymes and heat to eradicate dangerous pathogens from fecal matter and transform it into safe fertilizer. Another option is buring your pup’s poop away from gardens and water sources, keeping it clear of coming in potential contact with humans. It’s best to discard waste in biodegradable poop baggies comprised of cornstarch plastic, since these bags tend to be more sustainable than petroleum-based polyethylene.

Cat poo should always be bagged and placed in the trash since it can carry an infectious parasite that’s harmful to fetuses and those with weaker immune systems. Keep in mind that a large portion of the nearly 2 million tons of nonbiodegradable kitty litter that’s hauled off to landfills yearly contains quartz silica, which is recognized by the California Environmental Protection Agency as carcinogenic to pets and humans alike. Experts suggest biodegradable litter made from recycled newspaper, sawdust pellets, and corn. Another option: chemical-free, wheat based kitty litter available in natural food markets. For odor removal, simply dust kitty litter with baking soda.

· Protect your pet from pests: Experts note that flea and pest prevention can be potentially more harmful to pets and humans than the pest itself. In fact, many researches suggest that many animals have been injured, some fatally by the exposure to these pesky pesticides often found in flea collars, aerosol sprays and other pest control products. And, even The Environmental Protection Agency has deemed these products “dangerous” for kids, since they are the ones that most often play with pets and then rub their eyes, mouth, etc.

Instead of products containing carbaryl, propoxur and tetrachlorvinphos, consider sprinkling a hint of brewer’s years, fresh garlic or flaxseed oil in your pet’s food, since fleas hate the smell and taste. Experts add that fleas also hate the smell of pennyroyal, lavender, mint, rosemary, sweet woodruff, and ceder…so you may want to add some of these scents to a collar or bandana and place it around your pet’s neck or rub the dried herbs into your pet’s coat. Another option is an herbal flea collar sold at a host of health food stores and pet stores respectively. If fleas have already gotten to your pet, sprinkle all pet beds, carpets, and lounging areas with boric acid salts….known to kill flea larvae sand harming pets or people.

Contolling pets skin diseases

What Are The Signs Of Skin Disease?

These includes:
• Itching, or pruritis. This is one of the most frequently seen signs and can range from intermittent minor irritation to a relentless, intense drive to scratch leading to
self-inflicted injuries.
• Hair loss, or alopecia. This is another very common sign of skin disease. It can be localised to a specific area, such as in ringworm or wet eczema, or could be generalised, affecting most of the body. The distribution of hair loss can also help the vet in reaching a diagnosis.
• Skin inflammation, or erythema, is often seen and can vary from a mild reddening of an area to a case where the whole animal feels hot to the touch.
• Scaly skin or a scurfy coat - can be localised or general.
• Excessively oily or excessively dry coat conditions.
• Skin malodour can often be one of the most common presenting symptoms, since this also affects the pet owner as well.

The presence or absence of these signs and their location can be very useful to the vet attempting to diagnose which skin disease is present.

What Can We Use To Treat Skin Disease?

Whilst many skin conditions are readily curable if the appropriate medications are used, others require long term or possibly life-long medications and management to minimise the affect on the sufferer.
Antibiotics and Antifungals
The skin is naturally covered by a massive population of bacteria and yeasts and should they be able to break through the superficial layer of skin an infection will result.
Antibiotics and antifungal agents are available through your veterinary surgeon.

Antihistamines and Glucocorticoids (steroids)

Allergies affecting the skin are very common and both these classes of drugs are often used under close veterinary supervision to help regulate the animals' allergic response.

Ectoparasiticides

Ectoparasiticides are medications that control parasites living on the animals' skin. Flea infestations are responsible for more cases of skin disease than anything else in the UK and so drugs that SUCCESSFULLY control or kill fleas are of vital importance. As well as using flea products on the pet it is also important to use products to treat the pets environment ie. the home, since this is where a flea spends 95% of its life.

Mange is a skin disease that is caused by mites that burrow under the skin. There are two types of mange that are common in the UK and it is important to know which is present as the treatments can differ. Diagnosis involves taking skin scrapes and examining these under a microscope to identify which mange mite is present. Your vet will be able to do this.

Lice are another common cause of skin disease. Lice are just visible to the naked eye and this gives rise to the term `walking dandruff` describing the slow, barely perceptible drift of these animals as they crawl through the pets' coat.
Ticks are also commonly seen in the UK and products are available for their control.

In dogs some families of roundworms can also cause skin disease, as the infective larvae are able to burrow directly into areas of exposed skin. Regular worming with products such as DRONTAL PLUS/XL, PANACUR PASTE or PANACUR GRANULES will prevent this.

Shampoos

A suitable shampoo would be valuable in most cases of skin disease though the practicalities of their use in cats are limiting.

There is a range of products on the market which include:
• Hypoallergenic shampoos (EPISOOTHE/DERMOCANIS). These will soothe inflamed areas of the skin and also moisturise the coat.
• Anti-scaling agents (SEBOCALM /SEBOMILD) which work by lifting the debris and damaged cells from the skin's surface.
• Tar shampoos (TARLITE) ,used in greasy skin conditions.

Coat Conditioning Sprays

These products are applied directly to the animals` coat and act as a moisturiser. (HUMILAC).

Diet

Food allergy or dietary intolerance is quite frequently seen affecting and can affect both dogs and cats. Many of today's commercial pet diets combine several sources of proteins and some of these can spark off an allergy which manifests itself as skin disease. Gluten intolerance can also be seen. Diagnosis depends on feeding the patient a `hypoallergenic' diet that contains a single or novel protein source for 4-6 weeks, in which time signs abate. By slowly adding in more protein sources into the diet and watching the animal for signs of relapse it is then possible to find out which protein is the cause of the problem.

Diets such as HILLS D/D, HILLS C/D and ROYAL CANIN SENSITIVITY CONTROL are ready made diets that can be used for some of these cases.

Essential Fatty Acid (EFA) Supplements

The essential fatty acids are a group of chemicals that are required to maintain a normal health status. There are several ways in which they help the skin's structure and function. Signs of deficiency of EFAs in the diet include a dull coat, scaling and also itching and inflammation.
EFA supplements such as VIACUTAN or EFAVET REGULAR are often used alongside other products to successfully control the signs of skin disease. They are often required over the longer term.

Cat Communication

Cats may not be able to speak English but they do have many other ways in which they can 'talk' to you. Cats are cognitive animals, they solve problems just like any other highly developed species. Cats can and will communicate with you if you allow them to express themselves, talk back to them and try to understand what they are saying. Learn what your cat's different signals mean so that you and your cat can communicate regularly. This will not only improve the bond with your cat and keep your cat happy, but it will also allow you to better read your cat's signals so you know when your cat wants to play or just wants to be left alone!

Tails
Tails are probably one of the best communication indicators that cats have. One can almost read every cat feeling and thought by looking at his/her tail.

• Tail arched and puffed out or bristled - your cat is scared or fearful and is ready to attack or defend itself. The bristling is instinctual as it makes the cat look larger.
  
• Tail straight up in the air and fully puffed out or bristled - your cat is angered, aggressive and ready to attack.
  
• Tail straight up in the air and quivering a bit - your cat's tail moves this way when spraying urine to mark territory; however, once your cat is spayed or neutered he/she will continue to move his/her tail this way (without any spray or urine being excreted) when you greet him/her. This is your cats way of saying, 'hi, it's your loving cat!'
  
• Tail straight up and unmoving - an unabashed greeting. This is what a mother cat does to her kitten to tell him/her to inspect her rear.
  
• Tail straight up but the tip tilted to one side - your cat is very interested and intrigued by something; your cat is happy and friendly.
  
• Tail straight up or just slightly raised and curved like a question mark - your cat is very excited and interested in something.
  
• Tail curved down and then back up again near the tip - your cat is very relaxed and content.
  
• Tail still but tip of tail quivering or twitching - your cat is mildly irritated. Your cat may attack if the twitching becomes violent enough.
  
• Tail swishing from side to side rapidly or violently - your cat is about to attack something, this is seen during fights and play time. This is not the same as tail wagging in dogs.
  
• Tail held to one side - your cat is giving a sexual invitation (generally only females in heat do this).
  
• Tail held low and puffed out or bristled - your cat is intensely afraid.
  
• Tail held low and tucked between the hind legs - your cat is showing his submission or defeat.
  

Ears
Cats ears are another way that a cat expresses his/her emotions.

• Ears pointing forward and slightly outward - your cat is relaxed and happy.
  
• Ears very straight up and forward - your cat is listening to something that is intriguing.
  
• Ears twitching nervously - your cat is agitated and nervous.
  
• Ears flat against the head - your cat is frightened and may attack (this is instinctual as to protect the ears during a fight).
  
• Ears back or in between alert and defensive position - your cat is aggressive and may attack.
  

Back/Fur
In general a cat's body fur remains fairly consistent; however, if you notice your cat arching his or her back and bristling you can rest assured that your cat is frightened and on the defensive. Your cat may attack at this point.

Meowing
Cats can make over 100 different vocal sounds (dogs can only make 10). These sounds encompasses a variety of meows, purrs, gurgles, and eeps which occur in a variety of tones and octaves and can mean a plethora of things. The more you talk to your cat, the more your cat will talk back and extend his/her 'vocabulary'. And a good owner will learn over time what his/her cat means by each of his/her vocal sounds. By listening to your cat and talking back, eventually you and your cat can start to 'talk' back and forth to each other with understanding. This will help the bond between you and your cat grow and entice your cat to become even more expressive.

Purring
It is still not known why cats purr. Some theories on the origin of purring include 1) the possession of false vocal cords 2) the contraction of laryngeal muscles 3) blood flow that is amplified by the diaphragm. Whatever the cause of purring a cat purrs when he or she is generally happy; although, some cats are known to only purr when they are ill. However, most cat owners will attest to the fact that their cats only purr when the are content or happy.

Growling/Hissing
Growling and or hissing means only one thing - your cat means business and wants you to back off. If your cat growls or hisses at you don't push the issue or you will be attacked.

Pupils
Cat's pupils for the most part change with the amount of the light in the room. However, if your cat become very aroused, excited or angered his/her pupils will become greatly enlarged regardless of the amount of light in the room.

Eyes
Your cats eyes can also tell you a lot about what kitty is thinking:

• Wide open eyes - your cat is awake and ready to go
  
• Wide open eyes with a little sparkle - your cat is feeling a little mischievous
  
• Half closed eyes - your kitty is relaxed and ready for a cat nap! This can also mean your cat is ill if the eyes are like this on a consistent basis, even when awake.
  
• Closed eyes - your cat is napping, obviously.
  
• Winking/Blinking - A long slow blink means that your cat is content and relaxed.
  

Other Behaviors
Rolling on his/her back and exposing the belly - your cat is letting you know that he/she totally trusts you as he/she is exposing the most vulnerable part of the body. This doesn't necessarily mean that your cat wants a belly rub, just that he/she is totally comfortable with you.

Kneading - this stems from 'milk threading' that kittens do. Kittens knead their mother's belly to stimulate milk production. In doing this to you your cat is not only expressing his/her love for you as a mother-figure but also remembering the happy feelings that used to occur when the mother was kneaded.

Snoring - if your cat snores when he/she sleeps he/she is totally relaxed!

Sniffing - cats sniff each other in the wild to say hello and get to know each other. If your cat sniffs your face consider it a greeting and a way of showing that your cat trusts and likes you. Many owners even get down on the floor (face level with their cats) and touch noses when they greet.

Best Dogs For City Life

Keeping a dog in an apartment or house is not as easy as one would think. There are many factors to consider, such as the size and locality of your house or apartment, the breed of the canine, its needs and requirements. And then of course there is the process of potty training involved, since the last thing you want to clean is doggy litter all over your abode after along days work.

Keeping a dog in your city home is a huge responsibility. You have to make sure you keep you pet healthy and happy. Keep in mind the fact that city houses are generally very small with limited space, so breeds that are big and built for outdoor activities will not be able to live happily.

Below is a list of dogs that are meant for a life in the city. Of course most city dogs are small in size and do not provide much in terms of real protection. However, their loyalty and companionship make keeping them worthwhile.

Pugs:
Pugs are an all time favorite with city dwellers since they are affectionate, well behaved and have a coat of short hair that does not require much maintenance. They do not require much exercise; a walk around the block will suffice. They are quite sedentary and can weigh up to 25 pounds, but they make interaction quite pleasurable.

Boston Terrier, Boxers, French Bulldogs:
Other city favorites include Boston terrier, Boxers and French Bulldogs. Although boxers are bigger than the others, all of them happily spend the day napping peacefully in a quiet house, and are satisfied with a quick jaunt around the block once or twice a day. These city favorites provide the much-needed loyalty and companionship one looks for after a stressful day at the office.

Sausage Dog:
The Dachshund or sausage dog is another small dog ideal for city houses. This dog is well tempered and great with children. It is quite energetic for its size, but expends its energy running around the apartment or condo.

Basenji:
Owning a Basenji is like owning a cat, mainly because it hardly ever barks. This dog is great for people in apartment buildings that have strict rules about keeping noisy dogs that may offend neighbors. Its small size and obsession with keeping itself clean quality the Basenji as a good breed for the city.

Chihuahua and Pomeranian:
The Chihuahua and Pomeranian can also make perfect city dogs because they hardly require any exercise and are small enough to be carried anywhere in a bag. These gentle dogs are easy to train and clean up, and do not require much living space.

Shih Tzu:
Shih Tzu is another breed suited for city life, because it is small in size, easy to train and very smart. They will require a daily walk however, and regular grooming.

Schipperke:
The Schipperke is a less common dog but great for apartment or condo living. Weighing about 10 to 18 pounds, this active small black god with a docked tail is very entertaining and makes a faithful companion. However, a quick jaunt around the neighborhood is a must for this fur ball to help stretch its legs and get some fresh air.

If a larger breed is what you have in mind, there are a few types that can fit the bill, but each has its own set of challenges. Mastiff and Newfoundland are sedentary dogs that do not require much exercise, but they usually weigh up to 100 pounds. Another aspect to consider is their drool. These dogs slobber over furniture and spread their drool over the apartment. The Newfoundland also has a long thick coat that needs regular grooming to keep it shiny and tangle free.