Heart Disease in Cats

Cats, as most people know, are extremely stoic animals. It is very rare that a cat will complain about pain or discomfort. This may seem like a desirable trait to some, but in fact, it makes it much more difficult to determine whether or not the cat needs medical attention. Luckily, our feline companions do not seem to be prone to the myriad of diseases that dogs seem to be. However, they can acquire their fair share of medical problems. For example, one of the more common heart diseases in cats is known as feline hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (FHCM), a serious and progressive disease of the heart muscle.

The heart is a phenomenal organ and is quite possibly the most important organ in the body. It acts as a central pump, moving oxygen and nutrient-carrying blood from the lungs to the rest of the body.

The blood moves around the body in a circuit that is controlled by the pumping of the heart, making some vital stops along the way. The heart has four basic chambers, the right and left atrium, and the right and left ventricle. When the muscles in the right and left atrium are contracting, they push the blood into their respective ventricles. The ventricles have thick muscular walls, as they are responsible for pumping blood to distant areas of the body. When the muscles of the right ventricle contract, the blood in the chamber is pushed to the lungs, where the oxygen is taken up by the red blood cells. This blood then returns to the left atrium and subsequently the left ventricle, where another contraction pushes the blood to the rest of the body. Other organs, such as the brain, kidney, stomach, and liver, receive this oxygen-containing blood. This circuit is continuous as long as the heart keeps pumping.

Heart disease is divided into two categories: congenital (diseases that are present at birth) and acquired (diseases that develop later in life). When something goes wrong with the heart, there are a number of things that can be the source of the problem. Valves in the heart, which regulate blood flow between the chambers, can be leaky or unable to open wide enough. There can be holes present in the muscle walls between the chambers or between the major vessels. The muscle walls can become damaged or changed for several reasons. Any of these can cause changes to the amount of blood that is circulating around the body, and if severe enough, the disease will present itself in some characteristic symptoms, such as trouble breathing and fainting.

In cats, feline hypertrophic cardiomyopathy is a disease of the heart muscle. There is no definitive cause for this disease, but it is known to often be associated with high blood pressure or hyperthyroidism. In the case of FHCM, the muscle of the left ventricle becomes thickened and stiff so that it cannot be easily fill with blood. The condition can be compared to a balloon – a fresh new balloon fills easily with air as it stretches, while an old and stiff balloon does not fill as well, because it does not stretch. If the left ventricle of the heart has trouble filling with blood, there is less volume of blood in the chamber before the next contraction, and as a result, less blood is pumped around the body with each heart beat. When there is not enough oxygen-rich blood reaching the brain, episodes of fainting can occur. In addition, if blood is not being pumped out to the body and starts backing up in the heart, the increased pressure causes fluid to leak into the lungs making it difficult for the cat to breath.

FHCM is a condition that affects mainly middle aged cats, although younger cats can also be affected. It is much more common in males than females, and seems to be more prevalent in Persians and Maine Coons.

Symptoms
Symptoms of this disease include loss of appetite, lethargy or weakness, sudden development of difficulty breathing or fainting. It should be noted, however, that symptoms are not always present and the first sign of disease could be sudden death. Another consequence of the disease may be the formation of a blood clot that lodges in a blood vessel near the hind limbs, resulting in paralysis and loss of blood supply to the hind limbs. It is therefore important to bring your cat to your veterinarian every year for a thorough physical examination. Your veterinarian will check for heart murmurs and changes in heart rhythms that can suggest heart disease.

Diagnosis
FHCM is diagnosed with some very specific tests that may require referral to a cardiologist. Your veterinarian will first perform a thorough physical exam and will check the heart for murmurs and abnormal rhythms, as well as examine the entire body for other abnormalities. The blood will be tested for signs of other diseases that can be affecting the heart. X-rays of the chest will be taken to see if any of the heart chambers appear enlarged, and to determine whether or not the lungs are clear. An electrocardiogram (ECG) is a recording of the electrical activity of the heart and will tell your veterinarian about the abnormalities in the heart rhythm, and changes in the size of the chambers. Finally, an ultrasound of the heart can be performed by a cardiologist to visualize abnormalities and the ability of the heart to pump effectively.

Treatment
Before a treatment protocol is developed for your cat, thorough bloodwork must be performed to rule out other diseases that may be present, such as kidney failure. The functional ability of other organs is important in determining the medications that will be prescribed and the management of the heart disease.

The goal of treating FHCM, as it is a progressive disease (meaning that it gets worse over time), is to treat the symptoms and try to prevent the disease from progressing. The treatment protocol depends on the severity of the disease and the symptoms that the cat is experiencing. For example, if your cat is having difficulty breathing there are medications that help reduce the fluid load in the lungs to make breathing easier. Medications may also be prescribed to help the heart function better, by slowing down the heart rate and improve the muscle relaxation in the ventricle. A medication, such as aspirin, may also be recommended to prevent clots from forming if your cat is at risk. administration of this, however, must only be done following the instructions of your veterinarian.

Prognosis
Cats that are not showing symptoms of disease may live for years without problems. The longevity and quality of life for symptomatic cats, however, depends on the stage of the disease. Unfortunately, those with heart failure may live approximately one year or less. It is important to remember that, ultimately, it is the quality and not the quantity of life that counts.

Cat Pregnancy

The entire development of the embryo is a fascinating study with scientific names for each stage, but for brevity and better understanding, we’ll concentrate here on the basics.After fertilization, the zygote (formed by the uniting of the sperm and the ovum) begins to form a somewhat ball-shaped mass of cells, known as the cell mass. Once the cell mass passes 16 cells, it is called the morula. The morula enters the uterus and plants itself in the uterine wall by secreting an enzyme which dissolves a pocket of tissue in the lining of the uterus to form a “cradle” for the morula. In the cat, the egg reaches the uterus in five days and implantation occurs approximately two weeks after fertilization. Also, since the cat ismultiparous (bearing more than one offspring during pregnancy), this process will be repeated simultaneously by multiple zygote-

morulas, possibly from matings with different male cats, or toms. Not all embryos will survive implantation – this is truly a case of “survival of the fittest.”

The embryo continues to develop, with the more highly evolved cells of the cranium and thoracic regions developing early. The embryo floats within a fluid filled cradle of two sacs, the amnion, and the allantois. Amniotic fluid contains water, protein, sugar, salts, fat, and traces of urea. The allantoic fluid, is filled mainly with excretory products from the fetus.

The placenta, the source of attachment between the maternal and fetal bloodstreams, develops later. The placenta is the “highway” over which oxygen, nutrients, and fetal waste interchange

Finally, when all the organic structures have been formed, the embryo becomes the fetus, and the first trimester is completed. From now until birth, the major activities will be development (the second trimester) and growth (the third trimester).

Care of the Cat During Pregnancy

If you are fostering a cat or have welcomed a stray pregnant queen into your home, you’ll need to have a veterinary “well-check.” It is important in the case of a stray, to have her tested for FeLV and FIV and to discuss the pros and cons of vaccination.

Assuming you have a healthy queen, the best care you can give her is a diet high in nutrients, along with plenty of fresh, clean water. During the final 20 or so days, she should be switched to a premium quality kitten food, and continued on it until after the kittens have been weaned. Feed small, frequent meals. Her abdomen is full of kittens, and she won’t be able to eat much at any one time. She should also be kept indoors at all times.

Impending Birth of Kittens

As your queen nears her time for giving birth, she will exhibit a few signs that will give you clues to the impending arrival of kittens. The first stage of labor lasts from 12 to 24 hours, and may include the following “symptoms:”

• Nesting
  She may start snooping around in closets and secluded areas for an appropriate place to bear her kittens. The time is ripe for you to prepare an area for her in a private place, with a box or basket lined with soft towels. She may decide instead to give birth on the cold, hard floor of your bathroom, but at least you have tried to accommodate her needs.
• Increased affection
  She may suddenly become very loving, and want to be near you at all times. Don’t be surprised though, if a previously affectionate cat becomes withdrawn and seeks solitude. Either personality change may be completely normal.
• Decreased Activity.
  Queenie may decide she’d rather sleep most of the time. She may also lose interest in food.
• Milk Discharge from Nipples
  Your cat’s nipples will have become enlarged and pink about the third week of pregnancy; 24 hours or so before birth, she may show a milky discharge. This discharge may come even earlier in cats that have given birth several times.
• Drop in Temperature. The normal temperature in cats is between 100.4°F and 102.5° F. A dramatic drop in her rectal temperature is a sure indicator that birth is imminent

Organic Pet Care

According to statistics almost 10 millions tons of waste products that are the direct byproducts of cats and dogs take a tremendous toll on our environment annually. Experts note that exposes excrement can contaminate both soil and groundwater adding disease-carrying bacteria and parasites to them, while refuse that is bagged tends to lay idle in landfills. In addition, pets are frequently exposed to harmful levels of toxins due to the food and toy/product choices we owners make on their behalf. In fact, a recent 2008 study suggests that the hazardous toxic exposure for dogs and cat’s was significantly greater and more varied than it was for their owners…and that they say should prompt loving pet parents to take immediate precautions and action.

* Consider crafting their toys: Store-bought products are often manufactured in foreign lands that use lead and cadmium, that can be harmful to animals, especially those that chew on them and ingest the components. Time takes its toll at toxic chemicals and metals affect the nervous system, red blood cells and bowels, which may even be fatal. Can’t make your own toys at home. Consider “homemade” products…..those manufactured in the U.S.A. You can create your own using organic cotton and/or wool stuffing using an old-school sewing machine. You can even transform your old jeans, towels, socks or other stealthy fabrics into healthy playthings for Fido.

· Go Organic: Organic foods aren’t just for humans anymore. In fact, some pet food tainted with melamine that resulted in the illness and death of many family pets, just two or so years ago, got the attention of lots of loving pet owners. And, while the threat is no longer immenintly there, the need to choose wisely “IS”. Organic pet food reduces your pet’s exposure to growth hormones, antibiotics, and synthetic fertilizers. In addition, some agricultural experts suggest that the byproducts of producing traditional pet food proteins can compromise the water and soil supply. Experts suggest opting for USDA approved organic pet foods, which meet the same standards as human organics. They also recommend talking with your Vet about how to make some homemade kibble and bits for your pet, always keeping in mind that cats and dogs need special and specific combinations of nutrients that are often determined by a variety of factors including animal type, breed, and age. Still, nutritionally balanced homemade meals fare far better than bagged or canned varieties, primarily because the digestive systems of cats and dogs tend to process fresh, raw foods better than they do cooked foods. Plus, a healthy diet of balances raw foods will build their bodies’ resistance to worms. Again, just make sure to discuss options and recipes with your Vet first.

· Properly discard of doo-doo: Consider taking excrement to mills that offer pet-specific systems that rely on enzymes and heat to eradicate dangerous pathogens from fecal matter and transform it into safe fertilizer. Another option is buring your pup’s poop away from gardens and water sources, keeping it clear of coming in potential contact with humans. It’s best to discard waste in biodegradable poop baggies comprised of cornstarch plastic, since these bags tend to be more sustainable than petroleum-based polyethylene.

Cat poo should always be bagged and placed in the trash since it can carry an infectious parasite that’s harmful to fetuses and those with weaker immune systems. Keep in mind that a large portion of the nearly 2 million tons of nonbiodegradable kitty litter that’s hauled off to landfills yearly contains quartz silica, which is recognized by the California Environmental Protection Agency as carcinogenic to pets and humans alike. Experts suggest biodegradable litter made from recycled newspaper, sawdust pellets, and corn. Another option: chemical-free, wheat based kitty litter available in natural food markets. For odor removal, simply dust kitty litter with baking soda.

· Protect your pet from pests: Experts note that flea and pest prevention can be potentially more harmful to pets and humans than the pest itself. In fact, many researches suggest that many animals have been injured, some fatally by the exposure to these pesky pesticides often found in flea collars, aerosol sprays and other pest control products. And, even The Environmental Protection Agency has deemed these products “dangerous” for kids, since they are the ones that most often play with pets and then rub their eyes, mouth, etc.

Instead of products containing carbaryl, propoxur and tetrachlorvinphos, consider sprinkling a hint of brewer’s years, fresh garlic or flaxseed oil in your pet’s food, since fleas hate the smell and taste. Experts add that fleas also hate the smell of pennyroyal, lavender, mint, rosemary, sweet woodruff, and ceder…so you may want to add some of these scents to a collar or bandana and place it around your pet’s neck or rub the dried herbs into your pet’s coat. Another option is an herbal flea collar sold at a host of health food stores and pet stores respectively. If fleas have already gotten to your pet, sprinkle all pet beds, carpets, and lounging areas with boric acid salts….known to kill flea larvae sand harming pets or people.

Contolling pets skin diseases

What Are The Signs Of Skin Disease?

These includes:
• Itching, or pruritis. This is one of the most frequently seen signs and can range from intermittent minor irritation to a relentless, intense drive to scratch leading to
self-inflicted injuries.
• Hair loss, or alopecia. This is another very common sign of skin disease. It can be localised to a specific area, such as in ringworm or wet eczema, or could be generalised, affecting most of the body. The distribution of hair loss can also help the vet in reaching a diagnosis.
• Skin inflammation, or erythema, is often seen and can vary from a mild reddening of an area to a case where the whole animal feels hot to the touch.
• Scaly skin or a scurfy coat - can be localised or general.
• Excessively oily or excessively dry coat conditions.
• Skin malodour can often be one of the most common presenting symptoms, since this also affects the pet owner as well.

The presence or absence of these signs and their location can be very useful to the vet attempting to diagnose which skin disease is present.

What Can We Use To Treat Skin Disease?

Whilst many skin conditions are readily curable if the appropriate medications are used, others require long term or possibly life-long medications and management to minimise the affect on the sufferer.
Antibiotics and Antifungals
The skin is naturally covered by a massive population of bacteria and yeasts and should they be able to break through the superficial layer of skin an infection will result.
Antibiotics and antifungal agents are available through your veterinary surgeon.

Antihistamines and Glucocorticoids (steroids)

Allergies affecting the skin are very common and both these classes of drugs are often used under close veterinary supervision to help regulate the animals' allergic response.

Ectoparasiticides

Ectoparasiticides are medications that control parasites living on the animals' skin. Flea infestations are responsible for more cases of skin disease than anything else in the UK and so drugs that SUCCESSFULLY control or kill fleas are of vital importance. As well as using flea products on the pet it is also important to use products to treat the pets environment ie. the home, since this is where a flea spends 95% of its life.

Mange is a skin disease that is caused by mites that burrow under the skin. There are two types of mange that are common in the UK and it is important to know which is present as the treatments can differ. Diagnosis involves taking skin scrapes and examining these under a microscope to identify which mange mite is present. Your vet will be able to do this.

Lice are another common cause of skin disease. Lice are just visible to the naked eye and this gives rise to the term `walking dandruff` describing the slow, barely perceptible drift of these animals as they crawl through the pets' coat.
Ticks are also commonly seen in the UK and products are available for their control.

In dogs some families of roundworms can also cause skin disease, as the infective larvae are able to burrow directly into areas of exposed skin. Regular worming with products such as DRONTAL PLUS/XL, PANACUR PASTE or PANACUR GRANULES will prevent this.

Shampoos

A suitable shampoo would be valuable in most cases of skin disease though the practicalities of their use in cats are limiting.

There is a range of products on the market which include:
• Hypoallergenic shampoos (EPISOOTHE/DERMOCANIS). These will soothe inflamed areas of the skin and also moisturise the coat.
• Anti-scaling agents (SEBOCALM /SEBOMILD) which work by lifting the debris and damaged cells from the skin's surface.
• Tar shampoos (TARLITE) ,used in greasy skin conditions.

Coat Conditioning Sprays

These products are applied directly to the animals` coat and act as a moisturiser. (HUMILAC).

Diet

Food allergy or dietary intolerance is quite frequently seen affecting and can affect both dogs and cats. Many of today's commercial pet diets combine several sources of proteins and some of these can spark off an allergy which manifests itself as skin disease. Gluten intolerance can also be seen. Diagnosis depends on feeding the patient a `hypoallergenic' diet that contains a single or novel protein source for 4-6 weeks, in which time signs abate. By slowly adding in more protein sources into the diet and watching the animal for signs of relapse it is then possible to find out which protein is the cause of the problem.

Diets such as HILLS D/D, HILLS C/D and ROYAL CANIN SENSITIVITY CONTROL are ready made diets that can be used for some of these cases.

Essential Fatty Acid (EFA) Supplements

The essential fatty acids are a group of chemicals that are required to maintain a normal health status. There are several ways in which they help the skin's structure and function. Signs of deficiency of EFAs in the diet include a dull coat, scaling and also itching and inflammation.
EFA supplements such as VIACUTAN or EFAVET REGULAR are often used alongside other products to successfully control the signs of skin disease. They are often required over the longer term.

Cat Communication

Cats may not be able to speak English but they do have many other ways in which they can 'talk' to you. Cats are cognitive animals, they solve problems just like any other highly developed species. Cats can and will communicate with you if you allow them to express themselves, talk back to them and try to understand what they are saying. Learn what your cat's different signals mean so that you and your cat can communicate regularly. This will not only improve the bond with your cat and keep your cat happy, but it will also allow you to better read your cat's signals so you know when your cat wants to play or just wants to be left alone!

Tails
Tails are probably one of the best communication indicators that cats have. One can almost read every cat feeling and thought by looking at his/her tail.

• Tail arched and puffed out or bristled - your cat is scared or fearful and is ready to attack or defend itself. The bristling is instinctual as it makes the cat look larger.
  
• Tail straight up in the air and fully puffed out or bristled - your cat is angered, aggressive and ready to attack.
  
• Tail straight up in the air and quivering a bit - your cat's tail moves this way when spraying urine to mark territory; however, once your cat is spayed or neutered he/she will continue to move his/her tail this way (without any spray or urine being excreted) when you greet him/her. This is your cats way of saying, 'hi, it's your loving cat!'
  
• Tail straight up and unmoving - an unabashed greeting. This is what a mother cat does to her kitten to tell him/her to inspect her rear.
  
• Tail straight up but the tip tilted to one side - your cat is very interested and intrigued by something; your cat is happy and friendly.
  
• Tail straight up or just slightly raised and curved like a question mark - your cat is very excited and interested in something.
  
• Tail curved down and then back up again near the tip - your cat is very relaxed and content.
  
• Tail still but tip of tail quivering or twitching - your cat is mildly irritated. Your cat may attack if the twitching becomes violent enough.
  
• Tail swishing from side to side rapidly or violently - your cat is about to attack something, this is seen during fights and play time. This is not the same as tail wagging in dogs.
  
• Tail held to one side - your cat is giving a sexual invitation (generally only females in heat do this).
  
• Tail held low and puffed out or bristled - your cat is intensely afraid.
  
• Tail held low and tucked between the hind legs - your cat is showing his submission or defeat.
  

Ears
Cats ears are another way that a cat expresses his/her emotions.

• Ears pointing forward and slightly outward - your cat is relaxed and happy.
  
• Ears very straight up and forward - your cat is listening to something that is intriguing.
  
• Ears twitching nervously - your cat is agitated and nervous.
  
• Ears flat against the head - your cat is frightened and may attack (this is instinctual as to protect the ears during a fight).
  
• Ears back or in between alert and defensive position - your cat is aggressive and may attack.
  

Back/Fur
In general a cat's body fur remains fairly consistent; however, if you notice your cat arching his or her back and bristling you can rest assured that your cat is frightened and on the defensive. Your cat may attack at this point.

Meowing
Cats can make over 100 different vocal sounds (dogs can only make 10). These sounds encompasses a variety of meows, purrs, gurgles, and eeps which occur in a variety of tones and octaves and can mean a plethora of things. The more you talk to your cat, the more your cat will talk back and extend his/her 'vocabulary'. And a good owner will learn over time what his/her cat means by each of his/her vocal sounds. By listening to your cat and talking back, eventually you and your cat can start to 'talk' back and forth to each other with understanding. This will help the bond between you and your cat grow and entice your cat to become even more expressive.

Purring
It is still not known why cats purr. Some theories on the origin of purring include 1) the possession of false vocal cords 2) the contraction of laryngeal muscles 3) blood flow that is amplified by the diaphragm. Whatever the cause of purring a cat purrs when he or she is generally happy; although, some cats are known to only purr when they are ill. However, most cat owners will attest to the fact that their cats only purr when the are content or happy.

Growling/Hissing
Growling and or hissing means only one thing - your cat means business and wants you to back off. If your cat growls or hisses at you don't push the issue or you will be attacked.

Pupils
Cat's pupils for the most part change with the amount of the light in the room. However, if your cat become very aroused, excited or angered his/her pupils will become greatly enlarged regardless of the amount of light in the room.

Eyes
Your cats eyes can also tell you a lot about what kitty is thinking:

• Wide open eyes - your cat is awake and ready to go
  
• Wide open eyes with a little sparkle - your cat is feeling a little mischievous
  
• Half closed eyes - your kitty is relaxed and ready for a cat nap! This can also mean your cat is ill if the eyes are like this on a consistent basis, even when awake.
  
• Closed eyes - your cat is napping, obviously.
  
• Winking/Blinking - A long slow blink means that your cat is content and relaxed.
  

Other Behaviors
Rolling on his/her back and exposing the belly - your cat is letting you know that he/she totally trusts you as he/she is exposing the most vulnerable part of the body. This doesn't necessarily mean that your cat wants a belly rub, just that he/she is totally comfortable with you.

Kneading - this stems from 'milk threading' that kittens do. Kittens knead their mother's belly to stimulate milk production. In doing this to you your cat is not only expressing his/her love for you as a mother-figure but also remembering the happy feelings that used to occur when the mother was kneaded.

Snoring - if your cat snores when he/she sleeps he/she is totally relaxed!

Sniffing - cats sniff each other in the wild to say hello and get to know each other. If your cat sniffs your face consider it a greeting and a way of showing that your cat trusts and likes you. Many owners even get down on the floor (face level with their cats) and touch noses when they greet.

Best Dogs For City Life

Keeping a dog in an apartment or house is not as easy as one would think. There are many factors to consider, such as the size and locality of your house or apartment, the breed of the canine, its needs and requirements. And then of course there is the process of potty training involved, since the last thing you want to clean is doggy litter all over your abode after along days work.

Keeping a dog in your city home is a huge responsibility. You have to make sure you keep you pet healthy and happy. Keep in mind the fact that city houses are generally very small with limited space, so breeds that are big and built for outdoor activities will not be able to live happily.

Below is a list of dogs that are meant for a life in the city. Of course most city dogs are small in size and do not provide much in terms of real protection. However, their loyalty and companionship make keeping them worthwhile.

Pugs:
Pugs are an all time favorite with city dwellers since they are affectionate, well behaved and have a coat of short hair that does not require much maintenance. They do not require much exercise; a walk around the block will suffice. They are quite sedentary and can weigh up to 25 pounds, but they make interaction quite pleasurable.

Boston Terrier, Boxers, French Bulldogs:
Other city favorites include Boston terrier, Boxers and French Bulldogs. Although boxers are bigger than the others, all of them happily spend the day napping peacefully in a quiet house, and are satisfied with a quick jaunt around the block once or twice a day. These city favorites provide the much-needed loyalty and companionship one looks for after a stressful day at the office.

Sausage Dog:
The Dachshund or sausage dog is another small dog ideal for city houses. This dog is well tempered and great with children. It is quite energetic for its size, but expends its energy running around the apartment or condo.

Basenji:
Owning a Basenji is like owning a cat, mainly because it hardly ever barks. This dog is great for people in apartment buildings that have strict rules about keeping noisy dogs that may offend neighbors. Its small size and obsession with keeping itself clean quality the Basenji as a good breed for the city.

Chihuahua and Pomeranian:
The Chihuahua and Pomeranian can also make perfect city dogs because they hardly require any exercise and are small enough to be carried anywhere in a bag. These gentle dogs are easy to train and clean up, and do not require much living space.

Shih Tzu:
Shih Tzu is another breed suited for city life, because it is small in size, easy to train and very smart. They will require a daily walk however, and regular grooming.

Schipperke:
The Schipperke is a less common dog but great for apartment or condo living. Weighing about 10 to 18 pounds, this active small black god with a docked tail is very entertaining and makes a faithful companion. However, a quick jaunt around the neighborhood is a must for this fur ball to help stretch its legs and get some fresh air.

If a larger breed is what you have in mind, there are a few types that can fit the bill, but each has its own set of challenges. Mastiff and Newfoundland are sedentary dogs that do not require much exercise, but they usually weigh up to 100 pounds. Another aspect to consider is their drool. These dogs slobber over furniture and spread their drool over the apartment. The Newfoundland also has a long thick coat that needs regular grooming to keep it shiny and tangle free.

Pet Vaccinations

One of the biggest controversies in companion animal medicine today surrounds the use of vaccinations in companion animals. Vaccines were developed initially to protect animals against deadly contagious diseases. Many diseases that were fairly common such as canine distemper, canine parvo, and feline panleukopenia are seen much less frequently today as a result of the intense efforts by the veterinary profession to vaccinate against them. In the case of rabies, the effort to routinely vaccinate dogs that began in the 1950s also dramatically reduced the incidence of cases of human rabies in this country. In some cases, vaccinations have been wildly successful in decreasing, if not practically eliminating the incidence of some diseases.
In small animal medicine, vaccines have traditionally been developed against diseases caused by viruses, bacteria and fungi. In newer developments, vaccines have been developed against protozoans like Giardia as well. Now it seems that vaccines are developed almost routinely in response to diseases regardless of how common they are or whether or not they have a fatal outcome. In fact, vaccine use is so widespread that most veterinary practices send reminder cards to clients to schedule appointments for their pets based solely on their vaccination schedule. Although it was well known that vaccines do cause reactions or have side effects, until recently it was thought that they were fairly rare, minor and treatable when they occurred, and far outweighed by their benefits. It is now believed that reactions may be more common and serious, and because of this concern, the debate has heated up about the judicious and appropriate use of vaccination.

How do vaccines work?
Vaccination, or active immunization, refers to the production of an active immune response in the body. Vaccination works by stimulating the immune system with either a weakened (modified-live or attenuated) or killed form of the disease organism itself. Vaccines are thus classified as modified-live or killed. The weakened or killed disease organism is referred to as an antigen. The body's reaction to the introduction of the foreign antigen in the form of a vaccine injection is to mount a humoral (antibodies or immunoglobulins) or cell-mediated response. This is the defense system the body normally uses against disease. When the body encounters the real disease later on, it is already prepared to defend itself because of the prior exposure to the vaccine strain of disease. (It is important that the vaccine strain of disease closely match the actual disease strain.) If vaccination was successful in preparing the immune system, the range of response to infection can range from no clinical symptoms at all to mild disease.
Immune responses that are stimulated by modified-live vaccines occur faster and last longer than those from killed vaccines. The drawback is that modified-live vaccines have been known to cause disease in weakened, immune-compromised or otherwise debilitated animals. Killed vaccines are technically safer because they can't cause disease, but the response takes longer and doesn't last as long. Killed vaccines also require the use of adjuvants which are irritants designed to prolong and enhance the immune response. These adjuvants are under investigation for a possible association with serious vaccine reactions.
Vaccination works best in a healthy, unstressed animal. It takes about 7 days for the body to produce its response. Although most vaccines are given by injection, there are intranasal vaccines that are given as eye and nose drops. Because these vaccines are following the natural route of infection of respiratory diseases, the immune response may be produced much faster, within 72 hours, and last longer.
It is important to understand that vaccines do not make sick animals well, cure disease or prevent animals from becoming infected with the disease organism. They prevent serious illness only if the vaccine is given far enough ahead of the disease exposure for the animal's own immune system to produce a quick defense before too much damage is done. Concurrent vaccination with or after disease exposure, a problem commonly encountered in shelters, is likely to result in vaccination failure.

The current vaccination controversy
There are several questions being asked about the costs/risks/benefits of vaccinating companion animals and the safety of the vaccines. Should animals be vaccinated against diseases that respond readily to therapy or that are not very common if it places the animal at risk for serious side effects? The questions most commonly asked relate specifically to:
1.The number of vaccines in use
The number of vaccines available to veterinarians has skyrocketed in the last thirty years. The antigens have been combined into multivalent vaccines that allow one convenient injection to be given against several diseases, such as the common 5 in 1 DHLPP (distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza, parvo) dog vaccine. Questions have been raised about the effectiveness of these vaccines as well as the need for all the various components. Some other canine vaccines include Corona, Lyme, Heartworm, Bordetella, Ringworm, and Giardia.
2.The need to vaccinate against mild diseases that respond readily to treatment
The use of some of the vaccines has been questioned when diseases such as corona are not only low in incidence, but also fairly mild, usually require no treatment or are easy to treat when they do occur.
3.The fact that some vaccines are limited in their effectiveness.
Some vaccines are limited in their effectiveness, such as the Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) vaccine for cats, and not recommended for general use.
4.Vaccinations may interfere with later disease testing
Lyme Disease is difficult to diagnose in animals that have been vaccinated against the disease. It is also generally not as serious in dogs as it is in people. It responds readily to antibiotics in the early stages of the disease, yet treatment may be delayed because of the problems associated with diagnosis in vaccinated animals. Some veterinarians have questioned the need for a Lyme vaccine at all.
5.The need for annual boosters.
In human medicine many vaccines confer long term, if not lifelong immunity. The search for explanations about the need for annual boosters in animals led many to the conclusion that the manufacturer's recommendations may have been arbitrary and not based on duration of immunity studies at all. No one seemed to know exactly how long an animal would still be considered protected after vaccination. The studies now being conducted to find out how long an immune response can last in a vaccinated animal have revealed that many of the common vaccines confer "immunity" for several years if properly administered. In some cases, the titer may be taken instead of giving a booster. A titer is a blood test that will reveal the level of antibodies found in the blood. This functions as a measure of the immune response, although some would argue that the only true test of immunity is to "challenge" the animal with the disease and see if the animal becomes ill.
6.The safety of the vaccines .
The debate about the safety of vaccines became very heated when a possible link between cat vaccinations and a certain form of a deadly cancer known as fibrosarcoma was discovered. It was also suspected that autoimmune hemolytic anemia in some dogs might have one of its links to vaccinations. Intensified research into the production of safer vaccines began largely as a result of the concerns about these two serious problems. In the meantime, veterinary immunologists, epidemiologists, internists and research specialists are examining the way vaccinations are given and proposing new protocols.

Games To Train Your Dog

There are many reasons to play games with your dog. For one most important reason is, it will strengthen your relationship. People who regularly play with their dog develop understanding, respect and communication with their dog. Games are activities you do with your dog that require the two of you to communicate and work together in some way.Dogs are social creatures, playing game is an important element in developing social relationships. Playing games is a fundamental way of “modeling” a real life. You can teach a dog to obey by playing games that make following your instructions fun.

Besides that, it will keep the dog from getting bored, which will keep him from things you don’t want him doing, and make him healthier.

Games To Play:

1. Hide and Seek Put your dog on a sit or down position to wait. Then you go and hide in another room or behind a door. Call him when you are ready. Act very excited and give him a treat when he successfully found you. Start with easy place and slowly move to more difficult to find places. This is fun and will also teach your dog to wait until called.

2. Fetch Some dogs are natural fetchers, others are not. But it can be trained and have fun. Start by throwing a toy/ball or stick to shorter distance for a start, and command “fetch”. When he manage to fetch it, praise and reward him a lot, eventually he will know the game. Also, practice “drop it” in this “fetch” game. If your dog refuses to return the ball, which is quite common, or drops it too far away, end the game in disgust.

3. Drop It One way to train “drop it” is to give the dog large item to hold, then offer a very desirable treat for exchange. Wait patiently until the dog notice the attractive treat, and drop the thing and exchange for the treat. If the dog picks it up again, try another exchange and practice again. When the dog is dropping the toy regularly, start giving the cute “drop it” before each treat.

4. Clean Up Your Toys Get a box to collect a number of toys. Scatter a few toys on the floor. Through shaping and teasing, get the dog to pick up the items one at a time, and place them in your hand. Once the dog is lifting the items high enough to get your hand underneath to receive, you are well started. Reward each “gift” with a treat. This is “return for refund” game. Try different shapes of item which safe for your dog to pick up. Each item retrieved is dumped into the bucket. You will be surprised your dog will end up helping you to clean the house!

5. Find It! Put your dog in a down-stay position, show him the treat or his favorite toy, then let him watch you put it behind a door, a chair or under a towel. Then tell him to “Find it!” When he does, give him lots of praise. And of course, he gets to eat the treat. You can repeat this by varying the places and treats. Overtime, hide the treat where the dog can’t see it, like in another room. Release her, and let her get the treat. You can increase the distance, difficulty level. This is especially good for dogs that have learn “stay” but are nervous about having their people go out of sight.

6. Simon Says If you have the right attitude, you can make obedience training a game. Let your dog prove how clever she or he is by sitting when you say “sit”, lying down when you say “down”, etc. Try it when your eyes are closed, your back is to the dog, or you are in a different position like lying down or even standing on your head! For advance learner, can try mix up “drop it”, “take it/get it”, “hold it”, and “leave it”. You’ll be surprised with the results if trained properly and with patience.

7. Playing Soccer Need exercise? Did you know you can teach your dog to play soccer too? Start the game by gently kicking the ball along the ground toward your dog. Encourage him to get it. The ball is too big to pick up with his teeth, it will take him a few minutes to figure out that he must push it with his nose or bat it with his paws. Give him lots of praise as he begins to catch on. As he gets better at it, you can include more people in the game. For breeds too small to handle a soccer ball, soft rubber balls can be used.

8. Give Him Problem To Solve Boring dog? Put a treat inside a cardboard box and let your dog work to get it out. Make it easy at first — start with a box without a lid and let the dog see you put the treat in it. Work up to more difficult ones. Depending on your dog’s skill, you may end up with pieces of box all over the floor but you’ll have a very happy and busy dog throughout the process.

Eye Infections in Dogs

An eye infection is a relatively general description of a medical condition that may result in discomfort, discharge and abnormal appearance of a dog's eyes and surrounding tissue.

Conjunctivitis

This is generally the most common type of eye infection seen regularly in dogs. Conjunctivitis is characterized by the inflammation of the portion of the eye called the conjunctiva. The conjunctiva is the thin, clear membrane that protects the eye as well as the inner eyelid. The cause of this condition is most commonly a viral infection, an allergic reaction, or a bacterial infection.

The most common bacteria that cause conjunctivitis are streptococci and staphylococci. In Allergic conjunctivitis, the cause may be any number of airborne irritants that are causing an allergic reaction. Conjunctivitis that is caused by a virus is usually a result of a respiratory infection, flu, or other viral conditions. Regardless of the specific cause, this is the condition that manifests with all of the general symptoms of an eye infection, without any secondary symptoms.

Blepharitis

Blepharitis is a condition that usually manifests as an inflammation of the eyelids. The most common cause of this condition is a bacterial infection, which causes the subsequent inflammation of the eyelid. Other causes include demodectic mites, sensitivity to the sun, trauma, and other eye diseases. Though this condition may affect humans as well as dogs, it is occasionally seen in cats and other mammals.

Ulcerative Keratitis

In the condition of Ulcerative Keratitis, a dog's eye is subject to inflammation of the cornea. This is usually characterized by specific erosions of the cornea, though may also manifest as ulcers. This condition can be caused by several factors, though is commonly caused by keratoconjunctivitis sicca.

The common name for keratoconjunctivitis sicca is “Dry Eye”, and is characterized by a deficiency of tears, usually caused by abnormalities in the tear ducts. Other causes of this condition include herpesvirus, trauma(where eye is punctured), other disease affecting the eyes/tear ducts, and facial nerve paralysis.

Juvenile Cellulitis (Puppy Strangles)

This is a condition that usually manifests as blisters around the eyes, in addition to blisters around the lips, mouth, nose and ears. These blisters will cause irritation to the eyes, resulting in many of the common symptoms of an eye infection. The blisters will eventually become ulcerated, and a dog will have other secondary symptoms, such as enlarged lymph glands and anorexia. This condition is caused by a bacterial infection.

4 Dog Training Tips

There are many, many ways to approach training your dog. You could hire out a professional trainer (expensive...ouch!). You could enroll in a less expensive class (time-consuming...ugh!). Or you could carve out the time from your own busy schedule and do-it-yourself (can you spell commitment?).

I favor doing it yourself for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is that it's the best way to get to know your little best friend. But if you're doing it yourself, you definitely don't want to waste time or effort, right? So here are 4 time-crunching, zero-wasted-effort dog training tips that will work.

1) Keep Your Sessions Short

Your pup isn't like us. He can't "force" his attention on anything for very long. So you need to capture it quickly and work with it quickly. That means keeping your training sessions short...probably never really more than 10 minutes when you're starting out. You can compensate for the short time by having multiple sessions during the day or evening....think "mini-sessions." Then, when his attention span starts to stretch, you can stretch your sessions out too. Shorter sessions actually make for faster learning.

2) Keep Your Sessions Fun

Think about this for a second. Since both you and your dog have to go through the same training together anyway, why not make it fun?

Look for ways to catch your dog "doing it right" and pile on the praise when he does. That will be fun for him and his reaction will make it fun for you too. Be positive! Smile! Laugh! Set a "fun" tone. Then don't be surprised if both you and your dog start to look forward to your sessions together.

3) Hold Your Sessions In Different Locations

Many dog owners have been successful at getting their dogs to understand and obey them over a large range of commands. Then they see it all fall apart as soon as they go to a new location. It happened to me. I had trained up one of my best buddies to the point where he obeyed me almost perfectly. The problem was, I had only trained him inside my apartment and in a small adjacent side yard. Then the first time we went to the park, WOW, it was like I had a different dog!

You see, I'd been working him out in the same surroundings and when those surrounding changed, he thought the rules had changed too. So I learned my lesson and since that time have tried to train my pets in lots of different locations. After a while they learn that the rules are the same no matter where they are.

4) Make Your Sessions Consistent
It's probably hard to believe, but your dog really wants to know his place in your world...and he's happy for you to define it. You can define it more easily for him if you're consistent.

Don't vary your training too much in the beginning. Work your lessons in the same way, the same order. Train him in the basic fundamental commands until he starts to understand and obey. Once you've established that framework, you can add more commands and a little variety. This will give him a strong comfort level about what you expect from him...and once he knows that, he'll show steady improvement.

Keep in mind that every owner/pet pair is a unique combination. And for training to be successful, they have to find their own unique "rhythm." Using these dog training tips will help you find your rhythm quicker...so you and your pooch can build a strong bond that will last for years.

History of Cats

Did you know that our domestic feline friends are believed to be direct descendents of the African wild cat and that cats were domesticated about 5000 years ago! During this time period mankind had began to settle down in villages and abandon the nomadic lifestyle, when vermin were began to become a nuisance with mountains of stored grain, fruits and vegetables. Canines were already mans companion but were no help in protecting stored food since they would devour the food, a carnivore was needed and the domestication of the cat began.

This life changing event took place in what was the upper region of Egypt and the Pharaoh, considered a king god, named all the cats demi- gods, half mortal and half god. This created cats being ranked higher up in society then humans. If a house was on fire cats were saved first, if a human killed a cat it was punishable by death. Once a cat passed away a priest had to determine if it was a natural death, and the towns people would endure a ritualistic mourning process, going so far as to even shave their eyebrows and beat on their chest. Of course the cat was mummified and today more cat mummies have been discovered then human mummies. Furthermore cats were able to spread all over the world by sailors smuggling cats out of Egypt and were even traded as highly valued treasures due to their ability to control vermin.

Over the years cats and humans have had a love for each other as well as hatred. The dislike for the cat is partially responsible for the widespread outbreak of the bubonic plague during the 14th century. The plague is a bacterial disease of rodents spread by fleas. Signs include swollen lymph nodes, painful lumps, fever, headache, chills, and extreme tiredness. The disease is still present today but the invention of the antibiotic has drastically lowered the mortality rate. During this time period cats were disliked and a great majority were killed leading to an overpopulation of rodents. As the disease spread even more cats were destroyed since they were believed to be associated with Satan and were partially blamed for the massive amount of deaths. As more cats were killed the number of rodents grew creating a massive epidemic. Once the cause of the disease was discovered cats were again held in high regard and loved by humans.

The cat was again persecuted and associated with Satan during the middle ages. Cats typically were companions of elderly single woman who could be considered witches. Older woman during this time were considered useless since their bodies prohibited hard physical labor and childbearing. If the year was bad for crops it was believed a witch was the culprit and a witch hunt would take place. In many cases the older woman and her cat were tortured and killed together, some would be drowned, hung or even burnt to death. It was even believed at this time that sealing live cats into the walls of buildings would bring good luck.

Cats are complex solitary mammals that are motivated by their survival needs. They are quite talented at becoming close with humans and part of the household as well as reverting back to their wild nature when humans decide they no longer adore felines. Cats generally avoid encounters with strangers but if an encounter arises they will convey messages with the use of body language and some vocalizations. Slight changes in body position can send broad messages to another feline. An aggressive cat will spit, hiss, growl, swat, arch the back, swing tail, and even flatten the ears. If the feline is feeling confident and aggressive most likely the cat will hold the tail straight up, narrow the pupils, perk the ears up and may even prance sideways to appear larger, and might try to pounce the other animal. If the cat is feeling fearful it will generally flee the scene, if it isn’t too afraid it may freeze in place, and may even lose control over the bladder. A happy cat typically purrs, blinks slowly, and partially closes the eyes. The feline is known to be one of the most sensual of all mammals, with terrific eyesight, hearing, smell and with a great many taste and touch receptors. Whiskers can actually be a great tool to tell a cat what the environment is like. They are used to aid in navigation as well as sensation; it is thought they can even pick up on air currents. Whiskers are also used to convey messages, if the whiskers are held flat against the face the feline is most likely defensive or aggressive, if the whiskers are forward the feline is most likely friendly and inquisitive. Compared with humans felines are a quite species, but if you watch them closely you can probably catch a cat communicating with the use of the body.

The domestic cat has come a long ways over the years evolving into quite a unique creature. The cat has been a member of our household as well as persecuted by man. Cats have become a social creature that still have many wild traits allowing them to enjoy the comforts of a home and still be able to survive as a feral cat.

Dog Diarrhea

As pet owners, one of the most frequent problems we have to deal with is diarrhea, especially with dogs. While dog diarrhea is not an illness in itself, it's a symptom of another underlying problem. In many cases, canine diarrhea is not a sign of a serious condition, but in some circumstances diarrhea can indicate the presence of a more severe and dangerous medical problem.

What is Diarrhea?

Typically, healthy adult dogs will defecate once a day if fed once a day or twice a day if fed twice a day. Puppies, on the other hand, tend to defecate more frequently. In either case, normal stools are firm; however, when a dog is suffering from diarrhea, its stools will be loose and soft due to the presence of excess water. Diarrhea also often increases the frequency of defecation as well as urgency. Dog diarrhea may also be accompanied by additional symptoms such as flatulence, a bad odor, abdominal pain, and matted hair beneath the animal's tail.

Causes

One of the reasons that dog diarrhea is such a common and frequent problem is that it can be caused by numerous different factors and conditions. Canine diarrhea can be triggered by problems originating within the digestive tract or from another part of the dog's body. For instance, ulcers, cancer, food allergies, toxins, foreign bodies, and worms are examples of problems within the digestive tract that can lead to diarrhea. On the other hand, liver disease, kidney disease, Addison's disease, and anxiety are problems not related to the digestive tract that can trigger diarrhea. Clearly, the potential causes of dog diarrhea are extremely numerous and also range in severity from relatively minor problems to life-threatening ones.

Puppies versus Adults

The common causes and frequency of canine diarrhea tend to vary somewhat between puppies and adult dogs. First of all, puppies typically experience diarrhea more often than adult dogs do. A major reason for this is related to the difference in common causes of diarrhea in puppies versus those that are common for adults. Puppies are more likely to eat garbage, swallow foreign objects, and experience intussusception, which involves the bowel folding been back upon itself. In contrast, adult dogs are more likely to experience diarrhea as a result of diseases such as liver or kidney disease. Since the latter triggers of diarrhea are less common, puppies tend to suffer from diarrhea more often than adult canines.

Chronic Versus Acute

When your dog is suffering from diarrhea, it's important to keep in mind that there are two different types of diarrhea -- acute and chronic. Acute diarrhea involves sudden onset and resolves quite quickly while chronic dog diarrhea is an ongoing problem that can last for weeks or even months. While most cases of canine diarrhea are acute and non-severe, in some circumstances veterinary care is necessary. With respect to acute diarrhea, a veterinarian should be consulted immediately if the stools contain blood or are accompanied by other troubling symptoms such as fever, vomiting, or abdominal pain. With regards to chronic dog diarrhea, veterinary care should be sought out in all cases.

Diagnosis

Since there are more than a hundred potential causes of dog diarrhea, pinpointing a trigger in a specific case can be quite difficult. However, there are a number of different diagnostic tests that can be conducted in order to narrow down and hopefully identify the underlying cause. These tests include fecal analysis, blood tests, x-rays, and abdominal ultrasounds. While fecal and blood tests can reveal the presence of parasites, infections, or allergic reactions, imaging tools such as x-rays and ultrasound can reveal the presence of foreign bodies or of physical abnormalities suggestive of diseases such as cancer.

Treatment

When an adult dog or puppy is suffering from diarrhea, the necessary treatment will depend upon the underlying cause. More severe cases of canine diarrhea will often require hospitalization and intravenous fluids. Also, more specific treatment steps will be required to deal with the underlying condition or problem. However, for mild cases of dog diarrhea that can be treated at home, certain dietary changes can be very helpful. In some cases, reducing food intake or providing a bland diet for a few days can help relieve diarrhea. Also, it's important to provide the dog with plenty of fresh water in order to prevent dehydration. There are also several natural supplements and homoeopathic remedies available that can help relieve diarrhea. These natural products are particularly popular with pet owners who prefer a more holistic healthcare approach for their canine companions.

Prevention

Although dog diarrhea is a very common problem, there are ways to lower the chances of your dog suffering from it. To begin with, it's important to ensure that your dog has a clean living environment and clean water in order to prevent infections. It's also important to be aware of any food allergies that your dog may have and to prevent your dog or puppy from eating garbage or rancid food as much as possible. Other good prevention techniques include reducing stress and anxiety and promoting your dog's overall health and strength through the use of natural supplements, regular exercise, and a healthy diet. When your dog is happy and healthy, diarrhea will cause fewer, less frequent problems for your beloved canine companion.

Mouthy biting behaviour in puppies

Why is my puppy nipping and biting?

Although often thought to be a teething behavior, nipping, mouthing and biting in young dogs is generally a form of social play. Teething is more likely to involve gnawing or chewing on household objects. The first thing you must do is provide ample opportunity for play, without biting. Social play with people could involve retrieve games (ball, Frisbee or soft toy), hide n’ seek (with the puppy finding the humans for a treat), chasing after soap bubbles as well as walks, swimming or learning tricks. Although wrestling and tug of war games can be fun, they may lead to play that is too rough or rambunctious.

Puppies need to learn bite inhibition. This is something they start to learn while with their litter mates It is one reason that puppies should not go to new homes until 7 - 8 weeks and they have had time to practice social skills with other dogs. It can therefore be extremely beneficial for the puppy to have regular interactive social play periods with other dogs or puppies in the home or in the neighborhood.

How can I stop play biting?

Provided the dog is receiving adequate play, attention and exercise, you can turn the training to bite inhibition. One of the things that they need to learn is how much pressure from their jaws causes pain. Without this feedback, a puppy does not learn to inhibit the force of its bite. Because all dogs can and will bite at some time, this lesson is vital for human safety.

How is this lesson taught? When puppies play with each other, if puppy A bites on puppy B too hard, puppy B will yelp. If that does not work, puppy B will leave. This sends the message to puppy A that its’ bites were too hard and if it wishes to continue to play, it needs to be gentle. However, people often do not send this message to their puppy. In the beginning, they often allow the puppy to chew on them without reprimands and the puppy assumes that the behavior is acceptable.

Instead, the message people should send is THAT ALL mouthing and chewing on hands is painful. To do this, often all that is necessary is for ALL family members to emit a sharp "yip" and cease all play and attention immediately. This sends the message to the puppy that the bites are painful and that biting will cause play to be terminated. When consistently administered this will often stop playful biting. This training often works for those family members that are a little more forceful and assertive and who are immediate and consistent in their training. If the puppy persists, chases or immediately repeats the behavior, closing a door or walking over a baby gate to leave the puppy behind can help to teach the puppy that nipping leads to immediate inattention and isolation. In turn, it is very important to praise the puppy for soft gentle play or licking your hands instead of biting. This is the true key to teaching the puppy what is acceptable social and play behavior with humans.

It is important that if you have young children in your family (12 years and under) that ALL interaction, including games, be supervised 100% of the time. Children should simply be NEVER left alone with a dog, no matter how well behaved. Please read our accompanying handout on dogs and kids for more detailed information.

What if yelping does not help?

Other techniques are often suggested for play biting. Some involve harsh discipline, like slapping the puppy under the chin or forcefully holding the mouth closed. REMEMBER, PAIN CAN INCREASE AGGRESSION and cause the puppy to become anxious, fearful or perhaps more excited. These techniques also require that you grab an excited puppy; not an easy thing to do. Some puppies may even misinterpret the owner’s attempts at punishment as rough play, which in turn might lead to an increase in the behavior. PHYSICAL METHODS ARE THEREFORE NOT RECOMMENDED. Owners who cannot inhibit the puppy with a yelp, should use time-outs or a head halter.

The use of a head halter with a remote leash attached allows the puppy to play and chew, but a gentle pull on the leash can immediately and successfully close the mouth and stop biting without any physical force. By simultaneously saying "OFF", most puppies will quickly learn the meaning of the command. As soon as the puppy stops and calms down, the owner can allow play to resume, as long as biting does not begin again.

Remember that play biting is a component of play behavior in puppies. Play is a form of social interaction. Realize that your puppy is trying to play with you even though the behavior is rough. To ensure that you are in control, be certain that each play session is initiated by you and not the puppy, and that you can end each session whenever you choose. One effective strategy when the play gets too rough is to immediately end the play session and leave. Social withdrawal can be a very powerful tool. Leave the puppy alone long enough to calm down (30 seconds to two minutes). If upon your return the wild playing begins again, leave again. Keep repeating until the puppy figures out that when he gets wild or bites, you immediately leave the room. Although it is tempting to pick the puppy up and take it out of the room, this interaction may be interpreted by your puppy as additional play and the biting may continue as you carry the puppy to a confinement location.

An easy way to achieve social isolation is to simply leave a lightweight leash (a 6’ cat leash works well) on the puppy and as soon as the biting begins, drape the handle of the leash over a doorknob and leave the area. Or you can quickly tie the leash to a solid piece of furniture and leave the area. Or simply leave the room and shut the door behind you so the puppy can’t follow you. Again, keep the "time-outs" for short time periods, 30 seconds to 2 minutes and repeat if necessary until the puppy is calm.

Owners, who cannot inhibit the puppy with yelping or time-outs, could consider an electronic alarm, air horn, squirt bottle or ultrasonic device, as soon as the biting becomes excessive. Use the device as discreetly as possible and immediately AFTER yelping first. Praise the puppy as soon as he lets go. Repeat as needed but remember to keep your extra "tool" like the squirt bottle or air horn hidden until needed and then hide it again immediately after it‘s use. Do not leave it out or threaten the puppy with its use. Use it and then hide it. Children should NOT be allowed to use these devices but they should be supervised by an adult who can use these devices as discretely as possible.

I have heard that some games lead to excitable, rough behavior. Which games should I avoid?

Games such as tug-of-war, chase (with you chasing the puppy), wrestling and playing ANY games with your hands does encourage the puppy to bite and act aggressively towards you. Try teaching your puppy fetch, or blowing bubbles for him, or play hide n’ seek (the human hides and calls the puppy to find him for a reward of a toy or a treat). Direct the puppy’s mouth towards toys he CAN play with. Avoid giving your puppy household items such as shoes, towels or clothing to play with. This practice will teach the puppy it is OK to chew on things with your scent on them. Instead, buy him some sturdy dog toys such as Nylabones, Kongs or large plastic balls. For additional information on play and exercise in dogs, see our accompanying handout.

Is there anything else I can do to lessen mouthing and biting?

Yes. Make sure your puppy gets daily exercise with appropriate toys and enroll your puppy as early as possible (no later than 12 weeks of age) in a puppy socialization and training class. Make sure the class you pick does have play time so the puppies get to interact with each other off leash. You can also find other puppy owners and let your vaccinated pups play with each other once or twice a week. As explained above, puppies will help teach each other bite inhibition.

Aggression and Biting in Dogs

Some people believe that once a dog bites, it will likely bite again. Is this true? What causes a dog to bite? How does one judge if a dog is aggressive? Where can one receive help for aggression problems?

If a dog bites once, will it likely bite again? Not necessarily. It depends on the situation in which the biting occurred. Once a dog has bitten, it should set off an alarm in the owner’s head. The dog is in need of IMMEDIATE behavioural modification techniques to reduce aggressive tendencies. First of all, one must think about the reasons why dogs bite in the first place.

Biting is a natural behaviour exhibited by the canine species in order to survive. Biting is used for obvious reasons such as hunting and killing prey. It is also used for communication between dogs to exhibit rank or to ‘put a puppy in its place’. The pet dog has undergone years of domestication and has reduced the use of their powerful jaws to live in the human society. However, a significant percentage of domestic dogs have bitten a human, and aggression is the number one cause of surrendered and/or euthanized dogs. In most cases, this drastic solution can be avoided by educating owners and working with them to reduce aggression. A dog bites when it does not want you near them or you are in an area that they are ‘protecting’. Therefore, when placed in a different situation, the dog may not bite again.

Genetic factors may also play a role in whether or not a dog may bite. Some breeds are selected for their protection or guarding capabilities. For example, many breeds instinctively chase moving objects, which can escalate into predation. Socialization is also an important factor, because fearfulness or anxiousness is another common cause of aggression.

The best way to deal with canine aggression is to prevent it from developing in the first place. As a new puppy owner, there are a few points to keep in mind as you are training your puppy to reduce the chance of future aggression. Nipping is commonly seen between littermates at play. It may be a cute behaviour as a puppy, but that puppy will soon grow up to be an adult with much stronger jaws. The adult dog will not understand why the previously accepted play biting is no longer acceptable. Play biting and rough housing should not be allowed from day one. This is accomplished not by physical force, but by teaching a dog to associate non-aggressive behaviour with positive reinforcement. Studies have shown that this method is superior to other methods that use punishment as a means of teaching.

It is difficult to get accurate dog bite statistics because many bites go unreported, unless the person seeks medical care. Statistics Canada mortality data showed that an average of one Canadian per year died from dog bites between 1991 and 1994. National morbidity data for 1993 showed that 656 Canadians were hospitalized that year for dog bites. Children younger than 10 were four times as likely to be hospitalized as people aged 10 and older. The vulnerability of children to dog bite injuries, particularly on the face, is often attributed to the fact that their small size makes them less intimidating to dogs. As well, immaturity and lack of judgment sometimes lead children to act in ways that animals perceive as threatening or aggressive. Therefore, it is important to teach children how to approach an unfamiliar dog. If a dog is unknown to you, remember that anything can happen. If the owner of the dog is present and they say it is okay to pet the dog, have the dog approach the child. Children should not approach or touch a dog that does not approach or touch them first.

How does one judge aggression in an unfamiliar dog? Dogs will display similar body language signals to tell you that they are uncomfortable with their current situation. These signs include backing away from strangers, staring at the ‘threat’, growling, or teeth-baring. A fearful, uncomfortable or insecure dog has a higher likelihood of biting.

Dogs bite out of fear or protectiveness. It is important to properly socialize a fearful dog at a young age and expose him/her to as many new environments as possible. With patience, an older fearful dog can also learn to become less fearful in strange environments. Lots of praise (and treats!) can be given to the dog while he/she is in a new environment or meeting a stranger. The dog will then learn to associate new and strange things with something positive. For protective dogs, it is important to reward the dog for doing good behaviours when a stranger approaches. For example, as a stranger comes closer, make sure the dog is sitting and give lots of praise as he/she continues to sit as the person approaches. Eventually, the stranger will be able to come close enough to give the dog a treat. Once again, the dog will learn to associate the stranger with good things and forget about being protective. Consistency and patience are important.

In any case, what is the likelihood of a dog that has bitten to bite again? The answer depends on various factors, such as the age and size of the dog, the extent of the bite, the environment in which the incident occurred, and the degree of commitment the owners have for working with the dog to prevent it from occurring again. The last two factors are the most important. Some dogs are not suitable for environments with small children, especially if they have not been properly socialized with children in the past or if the children do not respect the animal. And of course it is up to the owners to be consistent in training and implementing the appropriate behaviour modification program to reduce aggression.

If all these factors are considered and the training is consistent, the prognosis of a successful program is good. It is important to realize that in some cases, success may require restrictions on the dog, such as avoiding certain situations that have elicited aggressive behaviour in the past. Generally, if there has been only one biting incident, prospects for success are good. However, if there has been a history of numerous incidents, the prognosis becomes less favorable. Therefore, it is important for dog owners to recognize the problem early and intervene immediately.

There are a lot of resources to turn to when faced with an aggressive dog. However, in Canada, the dog training and behaviour business is an unregulated field and people can teach any method of training, regardless of how inappropriate or inhumane it may be. With this in mind, any owner who has a dog with a serious behavior problem such as aggression should contact their veterinarian for a referral to a qualified and experienced trainer or behaviour consultant. It is important to realize that isolated biting incidents or sudden changes in behaviour may be due to medical causes, such as pain or neurological changes. A visit to the veterinarian will help rule out those causes and steer you in the right direction.